MANUAL FOR SLOOP AND TENDER

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This manual is intended to explain your sloop or tender and to help you use your sloop safely and with pleasure.

The manual contains general information about your sloop and also information regarding safety, handling and maintenance of your Sloop. We recommend that you read the manual carefully to get to know the sloop and its equipment before the first trip.

Read this manual carefully and thoroughly before you sail with your sloop. If – despite carefully reading this manual – something is still unclear, please contact us.

Also read the tips for safe sailing in this external document.

Attention! Inquire about the changes you can make to the sloop yourself, and especially what you are not allowed to change yourself. You could be risking your own safety and the factory warranty could be voided.

Pleasure craft and personal water scooters built and imported in the Netherlands must comply with the Pleasure Craft Act 2016. This act contains the requirements from the European Pleasure Craft Directive. The boat complies with the relevant provisions of the Pleasure Craft Directive 94/25/EC and amendments 003/44/EC of the European Parliament. The CE marking means that the boat complies with all current standards and guidelines of the International Organization for Standards (ISO) that were in force at the time of construction.
If a vessel meets all the requirements, the manufacturer may affix the CE marking. The abbreviation CE stands for Conformit Europe (Conformité Européenne). Products with a CE sticker meet the European requirements for that product group.

Sellers of vessels who place their own brand name on the vessel are also manufacturers according to the law. They therefore have the same responsibility and obligations as the manufacturer. In the Netherlands, the Human Environment and Transport Inspectorate supervises the Pleasure Craft Act 2016. In Belgium, the FPS Mobility and Transport supervises and a registration letter is also required for boats whose owner has a connection with Belgium. Marinaut supports the application process for the registration letter.

The manufacturer can demonstrate in various ways how the requirements of the Pleasure Craft Act 2016 have been met. Depending on the design category and the length of the vessel, an inspection by a recognised inspection body is mandatory.

The manufacturer creates a technical file. With this, the manufacturer must be able to demonstrate that the vessel meets the safety requirements. The technical file must also show which standards (for example, the harmonised ISO standards) have been used to test whether the vessel meets the requirements. The manufacturer must keep the technical file for at least 10 years after delivery of the vessel. The technical file contains:

• A general description of the type;
• The design and manufacturing drawings and diagrams, including explanations thereof;
• The results of design calculations and investigations;
• The test reports or calculations (particularly stability and buoyancy);
• The reports demonstrating compliance with noise and exhaust emissions;
• A list of applied standards and/or description of other solutions to meet the essential requirements
• The certificates, reports and records of the inspection body concerned (if applicable);

User Manual

The manufacturer provides a vessel-specific user manual (Dutch or English).

Declaration of Conformity

The manufacturer also draws up a Dutch declaration of conformity. The declaration of conformity is supplied with the sloop. This declaration contains at least:

• a description of the vessel;
• the manufacturer's contact details;
• the standards to which the vessel has been tested;
• where applicable: a reference to the inspection body concerned;
• if applicable: the certificate of the inspection body.
  
  

Fast sloop

If your Sloop with the mounted outboard motor can sail faster than 20 kilometers per hour , you will have to register your sloop as a fast motorboat. You also have to display registration marks on the sloop. You must have the registration certificate fast motorboat on board together with your identification and to steer the sloop you must be in possession of a valid boating license.

A registration certificate (Y-number) is mandatory for fast motorboats. You can apply for the registration certificate online at the RDW. When you sail, the registration certificate must be on board. The Y-number must be on both sides of the vessel. If you sell your fast motorboat, the new owner must transfer the boat to his name. The transfer of the registration certificate from private individual to private individual can be done via the RDW website. No certificate of indemnity is issued for a fast motorboat
issued.

Water skiing and wakeboarding are only allowed in areas designated for this sport. During water skiing, in addition to the boat driver, a second person of at least 15 years of age must be on board, who must constantly keep an eye on the skier(s) and the immediate surroundings. Water skiing may not cause unsafe situations or inconvenience to others. Furthermore, the same rules apply as for sailing with a fast motorboat.

Requirements:

• The registration mark (Y-number) must be on both sides. Clearly visible, in a colour different from the background and with legal dimensions.
• The registration certificate of the fast motorboat and the skipper's boating license must be on board.
• The engine must be in good technical order so that it does not smoke or cause any nuisance. There must be no risk of fire or explosion.
• The exhaust must have a silencer, so that there is no noise pollution.
• The steering system must function flawlessly.
• An engine cut-off button (dead man's button) is mandatory. The button stops the engine immediately if the driver falls overboard. This requirement does not apply to closed interior steering.
• A life jacket must be within reach for every passenger.
• A ready-to-use and approved fire extinguisher weighing at least 2 kilograms must be on board.
• The most recent text of the BPR must be on board in printed or digital form. This is not necessary on an 'open' fast motorboat (i.e. without a cabin).

The driver of a fast motorboat must:
• Be at least 18 years old.
• Use the dead man's switch (this requirement does not apply to closed internal controls).
• Sit in the operator's seat while sailing, unless standing to steer can be done safely.
• Wear a life jacket when steering a fast motorboat while standing, except when steering indoors.
• Prevent him from hindering or endangering other water users.
• Adhere to the permitted sailing speeds stated on signs and official water charts.
• Prevent the boat engine from making unnecessary noise or running unnecessarily when the vessel is stationary.
• Adhere to the rules for alcohol consumption. The permitted blood alcohol level is 0.5. These rules for
Alcohol consumption also applies to the skipper (if he is not also the driver).

Safe sailing, what do you need for that?

Any boat, no matter how strong, can be damaged if handled incorrectly. Irresponsible and dangerous activities are incompatible with safe swimming. The speed of the boat must always be adjusted to the weather conditions.

Underwater obstacles are dangerous. You should try to avoid them, although sometimes you simply do not notice them. If the boat sails over rocks, the hull will probably be scratched. Unfortunately, it also happens that the hull is perforated or torn open, which can cause the boat to sink. How to prevent it? The only way out is to study the map and analyze where the shallows are. It is also good to ask others who are familiar with the sailing area.

Another unpleasant situation can be a dark cloud on the horizon. If there is a chance of a storm, you should go to the harbor or the coast as soon as possible and seek refuge in a safe place. Also keep an eye on the weather via your phone.

The crew must be familiar with all emergency equipment. The crew must also be familiar with rescue maneuvers in the event of a rescue, towing or other emergency situation such as a man overboard.

Before sailing, please ensure that the following is on board (and we strongly recommend that you actually ensure that you have this):

Safety equipment:

• Life jackets
• Bilge pump or bailer
• Separate tow line
• Anchor with anchor line
• Anchor ball
• Signal horn
• Boat and engine manual
• Current water maps
• Tools and spare parts for equipment and engine
• Sufficient fuel
• Fire extinguisher
• First aid kit including fire blanket
• Make sure you always have a (telescopic) rowing paddle (with boat hook) on board.
• Spare keys to the sloop
• Fully charged mobile phone
• Possibly a marine radio or emergency beacon
• Tiller with paddle
• Sunglasses and protective cream
  As the owner of the sloop, you are YOURSELF responsible for purchasing this safety equipment! The mandatory safety equipment on a sloop can differ per area or type of water where you will be sailing with the sloop. Also think about protection against the cold and food and drink.

• Tips for safe sailing
• • Start with good preparation. Tank, check, think! Fill up with fuel in time. Check your sloop, the engine, the oil level. Check the weather forecast. Use your common sense on the water and think ahead. Check for any obstructions, also called blockages, on your route.
• • Know the navigation rules, buoys, signs and signals. See the Inland Navigation Police Regulations (BPR).
  • Sail right or starboard.
  • Use the recreational channels, recognizable by special markings.
  • Look around you and also look back regularly. Then you will see ships approaching from behind in time.
  • Stay out of the blind spot of freighters. A rule of thumb: if you can see the skipper, the skipper can see you.
  • Give inland vessels space. Keep your distance where possible.
  • Set a clear course so other skippers know what you are doing.
  • Watch your speed. Make sure that others are not bothered by your bow and stern wave and suction.
  • Preferably use a marine radio. This will keep you informed (by listening) and you can contact other skippers, bridge and lock keepers.
  • Do not suddenly change course or speed.
  • Be well prepared for your trip, use up-to-date sailing charts and follow the weather forecast.
  • Use the navigation lights in time.
  • Make sure you have a good view all around and look back regularly.
  • Do not create unnecessary waves.
  • Do not anchor near bridges, locks, work vessels with extended anchors, under high-voltage cables and in
  the middle of a waterway.
  • Avoid tacking on busy shipping lanes and keep the center clear for large vessels.
  • Make sure you are visible to other ships.
  • Sail without alcohol. The legal limit on the water is 0.5 per mille. It is not permitted to operate a boat under the influence of drugs or alcohol. The combination of sound and vibrations, sun, wind and movement causes fatigue in the water. The effects of alcohol are greater on the water than on land.
  •Sail smoothly and safely through bridges and locks.
  • Stay away from fishing nets. These are usually marked by black or yellow flags.
  • Swimming is prohibited in parts of the waterway intended for through navigation, at bridges, locks and waiting areas.
• Bridge lights bridges in operation: Red lights always indicate that passage is prohibited, unless additional yellow lights are on. Then you may pass.
• Bridges out of service: Double red lights always indicate that the bridge is not being operated and that passage is prohibited, unless additional yellow lights are on. Then you may pass.
• Main rules of right of way: large (usually commercial shipping) go before small. These are usually ships longer than 20 meters. These are limited in their maneuvers and cannot stop the ship quickly. Stay away and especially do not sail in front of them. Such a ship often has a blind spot in front of the bow, so that the skipper cannot see you (well). If you cannot see the wheelhouse yourself, the skipper cannot see you either!
• Starboard side has priority On a marked waterway, for example a fairway (red and green buoys) or a natural waterway (river/canal), the person who keeps strictly to the starboard side has priority.
• Sail before muscle, before engine (Small) sailing ships take precedence over (muscle powered vessels) rowing boats/canoes, and these take precedence over (small) motor ships. So: sail before muscle, before engine.
• Motor vessels among themselves Coming from starboard has priority on open water without buoyage. On opposite courses both turn to starboard.
• But above all: good seamanship! This means that you should always try to avoid a collision, even if you have the right of way. If possible, try to cross another vessel from behind instead of in front.
• Do not use gas lamps in the boat.
• Don't swim when the engine is running. You could come into contact with the propeller.
• Do not sail under the influence (alcohol or drugs). The combination of sound, vibrations, sun, wind and movement causes fatigue on the water. The effects of alcohol are therefore greater on the water than on land. Warning: driving a vessel under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs is both dangerous and prohibited by law.

• Do not use the boat if you suspect that the steering system is not working.

• During the voyage no one may be on the foredeck or on the edge of the seats. Avoid standing in the boat and always use life jackets.

• Always attach the engine's man-overboard cord to the driver.

• Crew: A critical look at the composition of the crew is certainly useful. Who can take over the ship if the skipper is absent? In a family crew consisting of a father, mother and small children, there is often only one adult who has his hands free to sail.
  It is important that in such a situation both parents independently have the same theoretical and practical experience. With small children on board you limit yourself to trips of a few hours at most and you stay near ports.
• Communicating on the water: This is best done via a marine radio. A marine radio is not mandatory for small ships, but is recommended. Your phone does not always have a signal on the water. In case of emergency, everyone on board must know how the marine radio works. No marine radio on board? Charge your phone fully before departure.
• Safety also has to do with knowledge and expertise. You can gain knowledge by following the necessary courses and training. Expertise is mainly a matter of experience, so do a lot.

• If you are sailing with a group:

  • Make sure everyone on board knows what to do in the event of an emergency. Such as

    • Find a sheltered spot if possible and drop anchor.

    • Make sure you get to safety first, then you can help others more easily. Take some time in advance to determine who will do what if, for example, the weather changes or the engine breaks down halfway through the trip.

      Even if your crew is very experienced, this does not mean that they have experience with your specific boat. Therefore, tell them how the boat sails, where the anchor is and how the possible radio or emergency beacon works. This way you keep a cool head during stressful situations and you are well prepared for your trip!

      An emergency beacon such as a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) is valuable in an emergency. A PLB can be taken anywhere and used. This means that they are not only suitable for water sports, but also for other outdoor activities. The big advantage is that a PLB works anywhere in the world and is very compact and light and can easily be carried on a life jacket.
      
      

Environmental aspects

• Avoid fuel and oil leakage at all times.
• Avoid noise pollution at all times. Music and loud conversations can carry very far, especially at night.
• Keep to the speed limit – avoiding the formation of waves near other vessels.
• Use as little cleaning agents, paint and other substances as possible.
• Avoid discharging cleaning agents into the water: clean the boat on land, where these agents can be collected.
• Do not use flammable solvents to clean the space.
• Do not use solvents or detergents. Household cleaning products should be used sparingly and should not be thrown into the water. Never mix cleaning products and ensure good ventilation of enclosed spaces. Do not use products containing phosphates, chlorine, solvents or non-biodegradable or petrol-based products. Citrus-based products are an excellent cleaning agent for marine equipment, they are safe for people and the environment.
  

• Do not use abrasive cleaners, solvents, ammonia or chlorine as these will damage the gelcoat surface.

• Increased exhaust emissions pollute water and air, so keep your engine tuned and your hull clean.

• Cruising speed is the economic speed at which a boat can move as efficiently as possible. This speed is always a trade-off between speed and fuel consumption. The economic speed is 70% of the hull speed, so for a boat length of:

  • 8 meters = 9 kilometers per hour;
  • 7 meters = 8 kilometers per hour;
  • 6 meters = 8 kilometers per hour;
  • 5 meters = 7 kilometers per hour;
  • 4 meters = 6 kilometers per hour;
  • 3 meters = 6 kilometers per hour.

  For hull speed you need as much as 3 times as much power as economic speed. Then you use a lot and only achieve a 30% higher speed.
  So in almost all cases it is best to sail between 6 and 9 kilometers per hour with a boat of 3 to 8 meters. The top speed is then 30% higher, but consumption is 300% higher.

• The following rule of thumb is often used for the consumption of 4-stroke outboard engines on petrol. The consumption in litres per hour at full power = ⅓ x power in hp (at 70% of full power this consumption is halved). For an outboard engine of 40 hp this gives the following estimated consumption: 13 litres per hour at full power and 10 litres per hour at 70%.

Manufacturing of the sloop

The sloop is manufactured in a mould. This is sprayed with a layer of lacquer, the gelcoat. Then a few fibreglass layers soaked in polyester are placed on top. Then the floor, benches and all other built-in parts are mounted and all the inner parts are covered with a lacquer, the topcoat. After the material has hardened, the sloop is pressed out of the mould under (air or water) pressure. The markings in the gelcoat that are created as a result do not affect the quality of the sloop in any way. These are merely impressions of the surface.

Flag

• According to etiquette, the following applies to the national flag, such as the Dutch flag. The flagpole of a national flag must be placed straight and tilted backwards in the axis of the vessel, slightly to starboard is also allowed if this is not possible.
• You may fly the national flag on days from 08:00 (Sundays from 09:00) until sunset, but no later than 21:00 (22:00 summer time) if you are a ship.
  
  

Maintenance

• Automatically schedule the aspects that recur every quarter in your digital calendar.

• Read the engine manual carefully (this can also be found on the engine product page on our site). It contains all the important instructions for trouble-free sailing. Run in a new fuel engine as follows: first quarter of an hour at minimum speed. Then three quarters of an hour at 10 to 30 percent of the maximum power. The second hour at 50 to 80 percent of the maximum power. Avoid sailing at full power for more than 5 minutes during the following 10 hours.

• A combustion engine requires maintenance in accordance with the engine manual .
  Information regarding engine type, capacities, fuel and coolant type, troubleshooting and general information are included in the manufacturer's manual.
  It is important to have the maintenance carried out by a maintenance specialist, if only for the guarantee (also keep the invoices for this). The best time is after the sailing season, so before the winter. A standard service usually includes changing the engine oil (to prevent wear in the engine ) , replacing the oil filter and fuel filter (these can otherwise tear, leading to engine damage) and possibly the anode of the (electrical and fuel) outboard engine. The anode metal provides protection against damage by corrosion (if it has eroded, it must be replaced), particularly by salt water. Never paint or cover the anodes. Once coated, they offer no protection against galvanic corrosion. If the anodes have deteriorated by 50% or more, they must be replaced.
  

• Check the oil level of a fuel-powered outboard motor quarterly.

• Check the starter battery on a fuel outboard motor every quarter. If the battery is in good condition, the voltage is between 12.4 and 12.7 volts, preferably not lower than 12.6 volts. A battery with a voltage lower than 12.2 volts must be recharged immediately.
• Because your sloop is exposed to pollution such as acid rain, salt deposits, black streaks or algae on a daily basis, it is also necessary to clean your sloop regularly.
  

  By cleaning properly, you prevent dirt from sticking to the pores of the gelcoat. Every gelcoat is microporous. UV radiation ages the gelcoat and it will become increasingly 'microporous'. As a result, dirt will stick deeper into the gelcoat and it will become increasingly difficult to clean. A good layer of wax protects the gelcoat against UV radiation and fills small micropores. As a result, dirt will stick less quickly and the gelcoat will retain its shine and colour for much longer.

  First remove all loose dirt with clean lukewarm water. Then clean the sloop thoroughly with boat shampoo.

  The soap cleans the surface well without affecting the gelcoat and/or wax layer. Please note! Household cleaners and detergents degrease the surface and will also remove the existing wax layer.

  For removing stubborn deposits ('brown moustache') there is Acid wash. This effective cleaner cleans deep into the pores.

  After cleaning or polishing, apply a new protective wax layer. A layer that fills small pores and provides a closed, water-repellent surface throughout the season, where dirt and water are difficult to adhere. The gelcoat will retain its shine and colour for considerably longer.

  In addition to soap and a brush, you can also clean the cable fender with a high-pressure cleaner. You can also unscrew and turn the cable fender after damage. If the cable fender has become frayed, you can burn off the wires with a lighter.
• You can fix shallow scratches by sanding with waterproof sandpaper, starting with grit 600 with a lot of water followed by grit 800. Followed by polishing with polish (for example Heavy Gloss Renovator). If you have a scratch that goes through the gelcoat, causing a white scratch, you can also repair it with a gelcoat repair kit. Gelcoat is the first layer on a polyester ship. It determines the color of your ship and is the barrier between the water and your polyester laminate (which is not waterproof). It is therefore important to repair cracks or scratches in the gelcoat in time. This prevents the polyester laminate from absorbing moisture.
  Oxidation, limescale and discolouration can also be remedied with polish.
• Small air bubbles (pin holes) in the gelcoat (visible layer of polyester) or star damage can also be remedied. Blistering in the polyester due to osmosis. When a boat is in the water, water slowly penetrates through the gelcoat to the underlying layers. In theory, all polyester sloops will experience osmosis at some point. Some sloops sooner than others. The development of osmosis depends on a large number of factors. Fresh water increases the chance of osmosis. A higher temperature accelerates the process. The period that the boat is in the water compared to the period on the shore is also a factor. Ensure that the sloop is stored out of the water as much as possible: for example on a trailer or, if a sloop is at home, a boat lift is an alternative solution. For sloops that are in the water for more than 3 weeks per season, it also applies to the prevention of osmosis that 5 layers of waterproof epoxy primer must be applied under any anti-fouling after sanding with grit 80.
  Water often forms in the bilge due to condensation, rainwater, splashing water or other causes. So keep the boat dry on the inside, especially the bilge area. This also means that if these recommendations are not followed, any osmosis, bubbles, gelcoat discolouration, cracks, hairline cracks, air cavities, hull blisters, osmotic blistering etc. that may occur will not be covered by the warranty. Osmosis will not cause a sloop to sink without further ado, without intervention too much laminate will be affected and that will not benefit the strength and stiffness of the sloop. Usually, after investigation, it appears that the physical and/or chemical processes in such a ship's hull can be tackled well with limited or major maintenance. A boat insurance from Nationale Nederlanden, for example, can also cover osmosis damage for up to the first ten years.
• Do not use wire brushes or scouring pads on the underwater hull. Small scratches can collect dirt. To protect the part of the sloop lying below the water surface from algae growth, you can apply a self-polishing antifouling varnish that offers the gelcoat layer very good protection against fouling. Consider a non-toxic variant.
  Soft antifouling: also known as polishing self-sharpening antifouling. During sailing, the antifouling gradually wears off, releasing fresh copper and/or biocides. The advantage of this is that no thick layer is formed as with hard antifouling. However, it is necessary to sail sufficiently (read: grind) and that new antifouling must be applied every season. Soft antifouling is mainly used for slow-moving ships. Applying soft antifouling to a fast sloop/tender is pointless, because the layer will wear off too quickly.
• Failure to apply antifouling to the underwater hull not only results in the growth of a large beard (growth of organisms), but also has negative consequences in the long term: The growth creates extra resistance and mass, causing your sloop/tender to sail half a to 3 kilometers per hour slower. To reach the desired speed, extra power is required from the engine. This results in higher fuel consumption, which can amount to 20%.
  You mainly get fouling when your boat is stationary. If you do not use your boat for a long time, consider storing it above water with a boat lift. Antifouling is by definition not good for the environment, especially copper-based antifouling. The ptfe/teflon or silicone-based antifoulings are more environmentally friendly and International Interspeed Extra is
  relatively easier to apply.
  It is also possible to apply antifouling to the part of the motor housing and the shaft that hangs in the water for a longer period of time. From a warranty point of view, it is not permitted to use all types of antifouling. For example, the manufacturer of Torqeedo gives permission for the use of International Trillux 33 in combination with Primocon Primer or Hempel Sillic One in combination with Hempel Light Primer and Hempel Sillic One Tiecoat.
• Cushions: Regular washing with a mild detergent or warm water is sufficient to keep the covers in good condition. Avoid getting the cushions wet and dry them thoroughly after washing to prevent mold. Place the cushions on the boat to allow air to circulate and spray them with a mold preventative. The cushions should be stored protected from the weather after sailing.
• The convertible top (also called spray hood or boat hood) with attached cockpit cover can be folded or rolled up while sailing. Avoid sharp folds and kinks and ensure that the windows lie flat, without folds. First open the window with the zippers in front and fold the window onto the roof. Loosen the sides and fold these up onto the roof as well. Then fold in the tube system.
• Always store the spray hood dry, in a clean and ventilated area.
• Zippers and snaps should be kept in good working order by regularly spraying them with a Teflon spray (without grease). If the entry piece of the zip is made of metal, this should also be kept clean; the metal alloy of which the entry piece is made can corrode due to the combination of moisture and salt.
• During the first few weeks, the hood may still allow limited water to pass through and may be stiff when installed.
• Re-assembling boat canvas or boat cover: Never put your boat cover back at a temperature below 15 degrees Celsius. The windows in the boat cover will shrink due to lower temperatures and there is a chance that you will tear the cover. So preferably in the sun, because then the material will heat up.
• Before you put the boat cover back on the sloop, you should first clean the sloop very thoroughly. If you do not do this, there is a very big chance that the cleaned cover or a newly placed boat cover will quickly become moldy again. The presence of a mycelium (network of roots of a fungus) or the spores of a fungus are not visible to the naked eye.
• You close the boat cover by starting with securing the windshield and working your way back. Use the quick-release fasteners to pull and position the snap fasteners correctly. Sometimes it is necessary to have 2 people close the snap fasteners. If you find it difficult to close the cover (alone), you can have a locking system such as Easy Cabrio installed to make closing easier.
• Clean the boat cover with a soft brush, to protect the stitching, and warm water. Preferably soak for 24 hours first. Do not use green soap or vinegar or high-pressure cleaner. A special cleaning product is also possible, only then the waterproof impregnation can disappear.
• You can take the hood to a specialized laundry. During a wash, a tent undergoes various treatments. First, the dirt is sprayed off and then the canvas is placed in a kind of warm immersion bath for some time. Then the tent is hung up to dry and is impregnated again. Impregnating reduces the chance of mold and algae adhering. This also makes the canvas extra water and dirt repellent. This also applies to the cushion set. Do not impregnate the windows and let the hood dry properly. Finally, wet the hood and you can see which parts have not yet been properly impregnated.
• If the hood has been to the laundry, it can be difficult to put it back. Because the foil can warm up a bit in the spring sun, it can stretch a bit, which makes it easier. If this does not work, moisten the hood with water. The fabric becomes a bit more supple when it is wet. If all the above does not help, the sailmaker can be asked to reattach the snaps.
• The lifespan of a boat cover is about ten years. After 5 years, have the stitching checked by a sailmaker and then have it stitched if necessary. This will save you money in the long run.
• If the sloop is equipped with HPL teak, protect it every quarter with a protective film. Particularly on the parts that are attached to the deck. For example with laminate protector from the brand HG: Protects against wear, scratches and other damage, masks dull spots and existing wear spots and gives shine). Clean with water and a mild detergent. No abrasives, scouring pads, anti-limescale agents or acidic detergents
  to use.
  

• Stainless steel is not completely rustproof. Keep your stainless steel fittings in top condition: Clean all stainless steel fittings regularly. Never use abrasives such as steel wool, acids or bleach on stainless steel. Remove rust stains as soon as possible with chrome or brass polish. Pitches can form and remain on the surface of the stainless steel. Use a high-quality car wax to protect the stainless steel. Inspect your boat regularly for strength and appearance of bolts, screws and clamps.

Winter storage

The warranty and boat insurance only provide coverage if sufficient care has been taken during winter storage. In other words, by applying the advice in this manual.

• Fuel engine:
  • Disconnect the fuel tank. Let the engine run until it stops while the boat is still in the water (squeeze the ball on the fuel hose a few times). Use the remaining fuel for your car. This can also be done during the annual maintenance.
  • Have a fuel outboard motor serviced annually by a certified specialist. The engine needs to be prepared for winter. The best time of year for winter storage is in spring, the waiting times are long. The engine is also prepared for winter to prevent damage and to guarantee a smooth start in spring. Even with few sailing hours, the engine also has to endure a lot. Think of corrosion by oxidation and anodes that are corroded and the replacement of the tailpiece oil. By changing the oil you know for sure that there is no water in it that can cause damage.
• Electric motor, you can also do the annual maintenance yourself:
  • Turn off the system with the on/off button. Remove the magnetic key and turn the battery master switch to the off position for safe working.
  • Clean the control lever, shaft and motor for a good inspection. Use a soft damp cloth and possibly pH neutral cleaner.
  • Check that the screws and bolts connecting the engine, electronics box and control lever to the boat are still securely fastened.
  • For a remote control: check that it is free of damage and is properly mounted. If necessary, clean it with a slightly damp soft cloth. After cleaning, spray WD40 between the housing and the lever and move it back and forth a few times.
  • If the engine housing has paint damage, have it professionally touched up to prevent water damage due to corrosion.
  • Anode: if the anode is dirty, clean and lightly sand so that the aluminum or zinc surface is clearly visible. If there is more than 50% degeneration, replace the anode.
  • Dismantle the propeller and remove any water plants and fishing line from the shaft. If fishing line is found, inspect thoroughly to make sure it has not been caught between the shaft and the seal. If in doubt about damage to the seals or the shaft, contact a mechanic. Check the propeller for damage such as cracks, broken pieces or deformations. If it shows damage that causes the propeller to be out of balance, it must be replaced.
  • Dismantle all data cables and connectors, check that the connections are clean and free of damage. Clean the electronic contacts with compressed air, spray the connections with contact spray and reconnect everything.
    Check all power cables and connections for damage and wear. If they are damaged (cracks in the cable sheath, deep kinks in the cable, plugs that no longer make good contact or loose connections) they must be replaced. (see “Checklist for Inspection, Cleaning, Maintenance and Storage of Batteries”).
  • Switch on the system. Check that the values ​​on the display and in the setup menu are set correctly and that the throttle in forward-neutral-reverse functions properly. When the engine is out of the water, only run it briefly and at low power. Let the engine run and check that the shaft is straight. Grease the shaft with propeller shaft grease and mount the propeller.
• All battery types:
  • To work safely, switch off the engine and any main switch and disconnect the battery from the engine and battery charger by disconnecting the power and data cables.
  • Inspect all power connections for damage (cables, connectors and terminals). Keep the terminals and connectors free of dust and corrosion. Corrosion (rust) on the terminals can affect the performance of the battery and can pose a safety risk. Carefully loosen the battery terminals, clean any corrosion with a wire brush or battery terminal brush. Apply battery grease (acid-free Vaseline) to the battery terminals, this prevents corrosion and thus voltage loss and transition resistance.
  • Dust and moisture creep into all electrical equipment. The moisture creeps into the cables, wires and contacts. Then the color turns green and that is "corrosion". The insulation of the cables is then damaged. The current flows through the rust with difficulty, called "transition resistance". As a result of the combination of dust and moisture, a small current comes out of the cable. We call that leakage current. It then becomes warm/hot and can burn. The result is that a fire can start. Check this and use the ground main current switch to prevent leakage current.
  • Check all data connections for damage (if any) and spray them clean with compressed air. Spray all data connections with contact spray, this will clean oil, dirt, dust, flux residue and condensation.
  • Store the battery in a dry and clean area with adequate ventilation.
  • The battery can be used connected to the engine in temperatures between -20 and 60 degrees Celsius. 60 degrees can sometimes be reached in the battery room on a very hot day so provide extra ventilation.
  • Switch off the 12V on-board system. The space in which the battery is located must be clean, dry and well ventilated. Switch off all equipment such as refrigerator and pumps and only charge the batteries when someone is on board. Battery chargers and inverters can burn out.
• Lithium batteries:
  • The optimum charge state (especially for long (winter) storage) is 50 % (or otherwise a minimum of 30% and a maximum of 70%).
    So do not keep the battery connected to the trickle charger, the battery may also not be charged in frost. If the storage period is longer than 1 year, the battery must be charged annually to 75%.
  • Always charge a lithium battery at an ambient temperature of at least 5 degrees.
  • Make sure the battery is not exposed to extreme temperatures. High temperatures in particular can shorten the life of the battery. By installing the battery in a well-ventilated place, the battery will heat up less and last longer. The ideal temperature for the battery is 15 to 25 degrees Celsius.
  • Although the battery can be discharged up to 100%, it is best to use the battery between 20% and 80%. This will slow down the battery's deterioration.
  • Lithium batteries are expensive and can be irreparably damaged by very deep discharge or overcharging. Damage from deep discharge can occur when small loads slowly discharge the battery when the system is not in use. Some examples of these loads are alarm systems,
    standby current from DC loads and drain of leakage current from battery chargers or charge controllers.
  • The battery will deteriorate faster if you take a lot of energy from the battery in a short time. For example, by sailing slower you can extend the life of the battery.
  • Try to minimize vibrations and shocks to the battery.
  • Check the voltage of all individual batteries annually with a multimeter. If the voltage difference between the batteries is greater than 0.1 Volt, there is an imbalance. In that case, contact a technical specialist.
  • Disconnect the battery(s). With an Anderson plug, you can easily disconnect it. With battery cables, disconnect the main positive and negative connections (first the negative connection, then the positive connection). With a main power switch, you only need to switch it off.
• Semi-traction VRLA AGM lead-acid batteries (starter battery and possibly electric battery for electric motor):
  • Important never to discharge the batteries more than 80% (starter battery no more than 20%). It is also important to fully charge the AGM batteries immediately after sailing. If the battery is discharged too deeply, the warranty will be void, as will charging with a charger with too low or too high a capacity.
  • If the battery is in good condition, the voltage is between 12.4 (24 volts: 24.8 volts 48 volts: 48.8 volts) and 12.7 volts (24 volts: 25.4 volts 48 volts: 50.8 volts), preferably not lower than 12.6 volts (24 volts: 25.2 volts 48 volts: 50.4 volts). A battery with a voltage lower than 12.2 volts (24 volts: 24.4 volts 48 volts: 48.8 volts) must be recharged immediately. If the voltage is lower than 12.4 volts (24 volts: 24.8 volts 48 volts: 49.6 volts) a few hours after disconnecting the charger, it is best to replace the battery.
  • In case of multiple electric battery(s) for electric motor: check the condition and correct voltage of all batteries when the boat is in the water. Use a multimeter for this. Measure the battery(s) in loaded and unloaded conditions.
    -Loaded: Let the engine run and measure the voltage of all individual batteries with the multimeter by placing the pins on the + and – poles of the battery. After measuring, compare the results of the individual batteries. The difference between the voltage of the batteries may not be more than 0.1 Volt.
    -Unloaded: After charging, measure the batteries individually again and compare the results again. In this situation too, the difference in voltage between the batteries may not be greater than 0.1 Volt. NOTE! If the voltage difference between the batteries is greater than 0.1 Volt, there is an imbalance. It is important to remove this difference before the storage period. This causes voltage differences that can eventually lead to damage to the batteries, engine or other components.
  • Disconnect the battery(s). With an Anderson plug, you can easily disconnect it. With battery cables, disconnect the main positive and negative connections (first the negative connection, then the positive connection). With a main power switch, you only need to switch it off. With multiple batteries, you do not need to disconnect the batteries from each other.
  • Charge the battery(s) to 100%. The batteries have only 1.5% self-discharge per month at a temperature of 10°C. This discharge rate doubles with every increase in temperature of 10°C, so 3% self-discharge per month at a temperature of 20°C. Check the battery voltage every 10 weeks during the storage period and recharge the batteries to 100%. This applies to an ambient temperature above 0 degrees. A trickle charger is not necessary but recommended. NOTE! At ambient temperatures around and below freezing point, the battery voltage must be checked very regularly and the (starter) batteries must be charged to 100% to prevent damage due to deep discharge (the minimum voltage is 12.4 Volts for a 12 Volt battery (then you have 80% capacity). At 24 Volts the minimum voltage is 24.8 Volts and at 48 Volts the minimum voltage is 49.6 Volts. Then a trickle charger with temperature sensor is necessary. It is even better to store the battery frost-free in the winter on the trickle charger. This can be done indoors or place a frost protector.
  • The electrochemical activity in a battery increases or decreases as the ambient temperature changes. The charging voltage must be reduced as the temperature rises to prevent overcharging. The opposite is true at very low temperatures; the charging voltage must then be increased to prevent undercharging. Temperature compensation is required when the battery temperature is expected to be lower than 10°C or higher than 30°C for a longer period of time: temperatures common for boat applications. The recommended temperature compensation is -20 mV/°C for float use (stand by) and -30 mV/°C (calculated from 25°C) for cycle use (cyclic use) for each individual 12V battery). So at 0°C: 25*+20mV= +0.5Volt. So despite the low self-discharge at 0°C it is important to keep the charging voltage at the right level. At 100% the charging voltage drops to 12.2 Volt: the level of 40% discharge and that is not good for the battery.
    The maximum charging voltage of the batteries is 14.6 Volt to 14.8 Volt in cycle use at 12 Volt (13.6 Volt to 13.8 Volt in float use).
  • Maintain the batteries with a trickle charge voltage of approximately 13.2 Volts and a periodic refresher charge (source: Victron, Electricity on Board). Minimum charging temperature: 0°C and maximum charging temperature: 50°C.
    
    
• Place the engine in a frost-free place in a vertical position so that no water remains in the tailpiece.
• Spray the underwater hull with high pressure. It is advisable to clean the underwater hull immediately after the sloop comes out of the water. If the growth is still moist, it is easier to remove than when it has dried. A special environmentally friendly cleaning agent such as Radboud Bioclean ensures greater effectiveness.
• Check the underwater hull for damage and touch up the gelcoat to prevent osmosis.

• After sailing in salt water, immediately rinse the entire boat with fresh water. If the boat is used primarily in salt water, you should wax the hull once a month with a layer of wax and apply a corrosion inhibitor to all metal parts.

• Impregnate the convertible top or have it impregnated at a specialist laundry.
• Remove cushions from the deck or stand them upright to prevent mold.
• Dry the bilge area and open it for extra ventilation. This will prevent Osmosis sooner. If possible, open 2 ventilation points in the boat to ensure air flow and prevent moisture from lingering. Also place a dehumidifier, do not use a heater.
• Prevent condensation: ensure that the room where the electrical installation is installed is sufficiently ventilated.
• Of course, it is best to store your sloop in a shed or otherwise under a tarpaulin. It is important to remove all water from the sloop, otherwise frost damage can occur. In addition, all water residues and also condensation from the front and under the floor must be removed.
• The costs for winter storage indoors for a sloop with a length of up to 6 meters are approximately €500 to €600.
• Cover the sloop outside with a winter tent / winter cover; the cloth is set up with the help of supports so that snow and ice can fall off. The cover may not close completely, so that the air can circulate under the cloth. With every winter storage it is important to pay attention to the fact that no point load is created. You can prevent this by placing the sloop on several large contact surfaces. Remember that snow that remains on your sloop can easily weigh a few hundred kilos! No sloop is built to carry such a heavy load.

Theft

• Prevent theft by fitting an SCM approved outboard motor lock and a VbV/SCM approved cable or chain lock (with a thickness of at least 1 centimeter) with which the sloop is secured to the quay. These are available with the sloop.
• With a track and trace system you periodically receive the location of the boat on your phone. The system is available with the boat.
• At the Land Registry you can register that you are the owner of the sloop with a Ship Registration. The sloop will then be branded with a unique identification number. This will be recorded in the Land Registry register. When registering, you can also make the sloop less attractive for theft with microdots. With microdots, your sloop is extra protected in the event of theft. A brand can be removed, but it is virtually impossible to remove all microdots.
• When the sloop is on the sloop trailer then ensure that you have an SCM approved coupling lock (even if it is connected to a car) to prevent theft of the trailer and sloop (and when parking on public roads, additionally a wheel clamp). These measures are also required by insurers.

Recycle

Polyester has a long lifespan. At the end of its lifespan, take the boat to a recycling company. It is possible to process the polyester, for example, sheet piles or railway sleepers.

Insurance

Think about boat insurance (with possibly boat trailer insurance) that covers liability damage and any damage or loss of your own sloop. Univé, FBTO and Nationale Nederlanden offer these, among others. Also consider to what extent you want to insure the contents, rental, frost damage, transport over water/land or your own permanent mooring via the boat insurance.

• For sloops with an engine power of more than 4 hp or 3 kW, your private liability insurance will not cover the damage.
  For a sloop of 15,000 euros, a premium calculation at Univé gives a monthly premium of 5 euros for Third Party Liability. The premium for theft is 5 euros per month and damage to the sloop also about 5 euros per month. Accident cover and legal assistance both cost about 1 euro per month.
  With the Passenger Accident cover you are insured if you suffer injury as a result of an accident with your sloop and you die or become permanently disabled.
• With limited hull cover you are insured for damage to or loss of your sloop if this is caused by: fire, explosion, direct lightning strike, storm, theft and burglary; transport by road or water.
• Fully comprehensive cover provides cover for loss of and damage to your sloop if that loss or damage is caused or arises from: collision, leaking, overvoltage/induction, vandalism; blackout and joy-sailing, frost, blistering in the polyester by osmosis for up to 10 years (Nationale Nederlanden, FBTO up to 5 years), inherent defect of the engine and sloop and the inherent defect itself, any other external calamity. In the event of inherent defect (Inherent defect = a bad property that materials should not have), FBTO also insures everything mounted on the boat! In addition, also costs of emergency repair of the boat, costs of salvage and storage, costs to prevent or limit immediate threat of damage and costs of experts. In the event of repair, FBTO pays the repair costs and the material costs. Frost damage is also insured.
  
  

Transport

• Boat trailer : read the boat trailer manual for the safe transport, removal from the water and launching of your sloop.
• Hoisting: If the boat has to be lifted out of the water without a trailer, do not attach lifting cables to connectors, ski ears or the railing. Use special lifting straps that go under the boat.
  Keep the bow slightly higher than the stern to prevent engine damage.