MANUAL FOR SLOOP AND TENDER

This manual is intended to explain your sloop or tender and to help you use your sloop safely and with pleasure.

The manual contains general information about your sloop, as well as information on safety, handling, and maintenance. We recommend that you read the manual carefully to familiarize yourself with the sloop and its equipment before your first trip.

Please read this manual carefully before sailing your sloop. If anything remains unclear, despite reading it thoroughly, please contact us.

Also read the tips for safe sailing in this external document.

Caution! Inquire about any modifications you can make to the boat yourself, and especially what you're not allowed to change. You could jeopardize your own safety and void the manufacturer's warranty.

Pleasure craft and personal watercraft built and imported in the Netherlands must comply with the Pleasure Craft Act 2016. This Act sets out the requirements of the European Recreational Craft Directive. The boat complies with the relevant provisions of the Recreational Craft Directive 94/25/EC and amendments 003/44/EC of the European Parliament. The CE marking means that the boat complies with all current standards and guidelines of the International Organization for Standards (ISO) that were in effect at the time of construction.
If a vessel meets all requirements, the manufacturer may affix the CE marking. The abbreviation CE stands for Conformit Europe (Conformité Européenne). Products with a CE sticker comply with the European requirements for that product group.

Sellers of vessels who place their own brand name on the vessel are also considered manufacturers by law. They therefore have the same responsibilities and obligations as the manufacturer. In the Netherlands, the Human Environment and Transport Inspectorate oversees compliance with the Recreational Craft Act 2016. In Belgium, the Federal Public Service for Mobility and Transport oversees compliance, and a registration letter is also required for boats whose owners have ties to Belgium. Marinaut supports the application process for the registration letter.

The manufacturer can demonstrate compliance with the requirements of the Pleasure Craft Act 2016 in various ways. Depending on the design category and length of the vessel, an inspection by a recognized inspection body is mandatory.

The manufacturer must create a technical file. This file must demonstrate that the vessel meets the safety requirements. The technical file must also show which standards (e.g., the harmonized ISO standards) were used to test whether the vessel meets the requirements. The manufacturer must retain the technical file for at least 10 years after delivery of the vessel. The technical file must include:

• A general description of the type;
• The design and manufacturing drawings and diagrams, including explanations thereof;
• The results of design calculations and investigations;
• The test reports or calculations (particularly stability and buoyancy);
• The reports demonstrating compliance with noise and exhaust emissions;
• A list of applied standards and/or description of other solutions to meet the essential requirements
• The certificates, reports and records of the inspection body concerned (if applicable);

User Manual

The manufacturer supplies a vessel-specific user manual (Dutch or English).

Declaration of Conformity

The manufacturer also prepares a Dutch declaration of conformity. This declaration of conformity is delivered with the sloop. This declaration contains at least:

• a description of the vessel;
• the manufacturer's contact details;
• the standards to which the vessel has been tested;
• where applicable: a reference to the inspection body concerned;
• if applicable: the certificate of the inspection body.
  
  

Fast sloop

If your sloop with an outboard motor can travel faster than 20 kilometers per hour , you will need to register it as a fast motorboat. You must also display registration marks on the sloop. You must have the fast motorboat registration certificate on board, along with your identification, and you must have a valid boating license to operate the sloop.

A registration certificate (Y-number) is required for fast motorboats. You can apply for the registration certificate online from the RDW (Netherlands Vehicle Authority). When you sail, the registration certificate must be on board. The Y-number must be displayed on both sides of the vessel. If you sell your fast motorboat, the new owner must transfer the boat to their name. Transferring the registration certificate from private individual to private individual can be done via the RDW website. No release certificate is issued for a fast motorboat.
issued.

Water skiing and wakeboarding are only permitted in designated areas. While water skiing, in addition to the boat driver, a second person at least 15 years of age must be on board, who must constantly monitor the skier(s) and their immediate surroundings. Water skiing must not create unsafe situations or cause a nuisance to others. Otherwise, the same rules apply as for operating a fast motorboat.

Requirements:

• The registration mark (Y number) must be on both sides. It must be clearly visible, in a color that differs from the background, and with legal dimensions.
• The registration certificate of the fast motorboat and the skipper's boating license must be on board.
• The engine must be in good working order, so it doesn't smoke or cause any nuisance. There must be no risk of fire or explosion.
• The exhaust must have a muffler to prevent noise pollution.
• The steering system must function flawlessly.
• An engine cutoff button (dead man's switch) is mandatory. The button immediately stops the engine if the operator falls overboard. This requirement does not apply to closed interior steering systems.
• A life jacket must be within reach for every passenger.
• A ready-to-use and approved fire extinguisher weighing at least 2 kilograms must be on board.
• The most recent text of the BPR must be on board in print or digital format. This is not necessary on an 'open' fast motorboat (i.e., without a cabin).

The driver of a fast motorboat must:
• Be at least 18 years old.
• Use the dead man's switch (this requirement does not apply with closed interior control).
• Sit in the operator's seat while sailing, unless standing to steer can be done safely.
• Wear a life jacket when steering a fast motorboat standing, except when using closed interior steering.
• Prevent him from hindering or endangering other water users.
• Adhere to the permitted sailing speeds as stated on signs and official water charts.
• Prevent the boat engine from making unnecessary noise or running unnecessarily when the vessel is stationary.
• Adhere to the rules for alcohol consumption. The permitted blood alcohol level is 0.5. These rules apply
Alcohol consumption also applies to the skipper (unless he or she is also the driver).

Safe sailing, what do you need for that?

Any boat, no matter how strong, can be damaged if handled incorrectly. Irresponsible and dangerous activities are incompatible with safe swimming. Boat speed must always be adjusted to the weather conditions.

Underwater obstacles are dangerous. You should try to avoid them, although sometimes you simply don't notice them. If the boat sails over rocks, the hull will likely get scratched. Unfortunately, it can also be perforated or torn open, causing the boat to sink. How can you prevent this? The only way out is to study the map and analyze where the shallows are. It's also a good idea to ask others who are familiar with the sailing area.

Another unpleasant situation can be a dark cloud on the horizon. If there's a chance of a storm, you should head to the harbor or the coast as quickly as possible and seek refuge in a safe place. Also, keep an eye on the weather on your phone.

The crew must be familiar with all emergency equipment. They must also be familiar with rescue maneuvers in the event of a rescue, towing, or other emergency, such as a man overboard.

Before sailing, please ensure that the following is on board (and we strongly recommend that you actually ensure this):

Safety equipment:

• Life jackets
• Bilge pump or bailer
• Separate tow line
• Anchor with anchor line
• Anchor ball
• Signal horn
• Boat and engine manual
• Current water maps
• Tools and spare parts for equipment and engines
• Sufficient fuel
• Fire extinguisher
• First aid kit including fire blanket
• Always make sure you have a (telescopic) rowing paddle (with boat hook) on board.
• Spare keys to the sloop
• Fully charged mobile phone
• Possibly a marine radio or emergency beacon
• Tiller with paddle
• Sunglasses and protective cream
  As the owner of the sloop, you are responsible for purchasing this safety equipment! Mandatory safety equipment for a sloop may vary depending on the area or type of water you 'll be sailing on. Also consider protection from the cold and food and drinks.

• Tips for safe sailing
• • Start with good preparation. Fuel up, check, think! Top up the fuel in time. Check your boat, the engine, and the oil level. Check the weather forecast. Use your common sense on the water and think ahead. Check for any obstructions, also known as roadblocks, along your route.
• • Know the navigation rules, buoys, signs, and markings. See the Inland Navigation Police Regulations (BPR).
  • Sail right or starboard.
  • Use the recreational channels, recognizable by special markings.
  • Look carefully around you and also look behind you regularly. This way you'll spot any ships approaching from behind in time.
  • Stay out of the blind spot of freighters. A rule of thumb: if you can see the skipper, they can see you.
  • Give inland vessels space. Maintain distance where possible.
  • Set a clear course so that other skippers know what you are doing.
  • Watch your speed. Make sure others aren't bothered by your bow and stern waves and suction.
  • Preferably use a marine radio. This allows you to stay informed (by listening) and contact other skippers, bridge keepers, and lock keepers.
  • Do not suddenly change course and speed.
  • Be well prepared for your trip, use current sailing charts and follow the weather forecast.
  • Use the navigation lights in time.
  • Make sure you have good all-round visibility and look behind you regularly.
  • Do not create unnecessary waves.
  • Do not anchor near bridges, locks, work vessels with extended anchors, under high-voltage cables and in
  the middle of a waterway.
  • Avoid tacking on busy shipping lanes and keep the center clear for large vessels.
  • Make sure you are visible to other vessels.
  • Sail alcohol-free. The legal limit on the water is 0.5 per mille. Operating a boat under the influence of drugs or alcohol is prohibited. The combination of noise and vibration, sun, wind, and movement causes fatigue in the water. The effects of alcohol are greater on water than on land.
  •Sail smoothly and safely through the bridge and lock.
  • Stay away from fishing nets. These are usually marked with black or yellow flags.
  • Swimming is prohibited in parts of the waterway intended for through navigation, near bridges, locks and waiting areas.
• Bridge lights in operation: Red lights always indicate that passage is prohibited, unless additional yellow lights are on. In that case, you may pass through.
• Bridges out of service: Double red lights always indicate that the bridge is not being operated and that passage is prohibited, unless additional yellow lights are on. In that case, you may pass through.
• Most important right-of-way rules: large vessels (usually commercial vessels) have priority over small vessels. These are usually vessels longer than 20 meters. These vessels are limited in their maneuvering and cannot stop quickly. Stay away from them and, above all, do not sail in front of them. Such vessels often have a blind spot in front of the bow, making it difficult for the skipper to see you (clearly). If you can't see the wheelhouse, the skipper can't see you either!
• Starboard bank has priority On a marked waterway, for example a fairway (red and green buoys) or a natural waterway (river/canal), the one who keeps strictly to starboard bank has priority.
• Sail before muscle, before motor. (Small) sailing vessels take precedence over (muscle-powered vessels) rowboats/canoes, which in turn take precedence over (small) motor vessels. So: sail before muscle, before motor.
• Motorized vessels approaching from starboard have priority in open water without buoys. If the course is opposite, both vessels will veer to starboard.
• But above all, good seamanship is paramount! This means you must always try to avoid a collision, even if you have the right of way. If possible, try to pass another vessel from behind instead of ahead.
• Do not use gas lamps in the boat.
• Don't swim when the engine is running. You could come into contact with the propeller.
• Do not sail under the influence of alcohol or drugs. The combination of noise, vibration, sun, wind, and movement causes fatigue on the water. Therefore, the effects of alcohol are greater on the water than on land. Warning: Operating a vessel under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs is both dangerous and prohibited by law.
• Do not use the boat if you suspect that the steering system is not working.
• No one is allowed on the foredeck or the edge of the seats while sailing. Avoid standing in the boat and always wear life jackets.
• Always attach the engine's man-overboard cord to the driver.
• Crew: A critical look at the composition of the crew is certainly useful.
• Who can take over the helm if the skipper is unable to sail? In a family crew consisting of a father, mother, and young children, there is often only one adult who is free to sail.
  In such a situation, it's important that both parents independently have the same theoretical and practical experience. With young children on board, limit your trips to a few hours at most and stay close to ports.
• Communicating on the water: This is best done via a radio. A radio isn't required for small vessels, but it is recommended. Your phone doesn't always have reception on the water. In case of an emergency, everyone on board should know how to use the radio. No radio on board? Fully charge your phone before departure.
• Safety also involves knowledge and skills. You can gain knowledge by taking the necessary courses and training. Skill is primarily a matter of experience, so practice often.
• If you are sailing with a group:
  • Z org that everyone on board knows how to act in the event of an emergency. Such as
    • If possible, find a sheltered spot and drop anchor.

    • Make sure you get to safety first, then you can more easily help someone else. Take some time in advance to determine who will do what if, for example, the weather changes or the engine breaks down halfway through the trip.

      Even if your crew is experienced, that doesn't necessarily mean they have experience with your specific boat. Therefore, explain how the boat sails, where the anchor is, and how the radio or emergency beacon works. This way, you'll stay calm in stressful situations and be well-prepared for your trip!

      A personal locator beacon (PLB) is valuable in an emergency. You can take a PLB with you and use it anywhere. This means they're suitable not only for water sports but also for other outdoor activities. The big advantage is that a PLB works anywhere in the world, is very compact, and lightweight, and can easily be carried on a life jacket.

Environmental aspects

• Avoid fuel and oil leaks at all times.
• Avoid excessive noise at all times. Music and loud conversations can carry very far, especially at night.
• Keep to the speed limit – avoid creating waves near other vessels.
• Use as little cleaning agents, paint and other substances as possible.
• Avoid discharging cleaning agents into the water: clean the boat on land, where these agents can be collected.
• Do not use flammable solvents to clean the space.
• Do not use solvents or detergents. Household cleaning products should be used sparingly and not be added to water. Never mix cleaning agents and ensure good ventilation of enclosed spaces. Do not use products containing phosphates, chlorine, solvents, or non-biodegradable or gasoline-based products. Citrus-based products are an excellent cleaning agent for marine equipment and are safe for both humans and the environment.
  
• Do not use abrasive cleaners, solvents, ammonia or chlorine as these will damage the gelcoat surface.
• Increased exhaust emissions pollute water and air. Therefore, keep your engine tuned and your hull clean. Cruising speed is the economical speed at which a boat can move most efficiently. This speed is always a trade-off between speed and fuel consumption. The economical speed is 70% of the hull speed, so for a boat length of:

• 8 meters = 9 kilometers per hour;
• 7 meters = 8 kilometers per hour;
• 6 meters = 8 kilometers per hour;
• 5 meters = 7 kilometers per hour;
• 4 meters = 6 kilometers per hour;
• 3 meters = 6 kilometers per hour.

To reach hull speed, you need a whopping three times as much power as the economical speed. This consumes a lot of power and only achieves a 30% higher speed.
So in almost all cases it is best to sail between 6 and 9 kilometers per hour with a boat of 3 to 8 meters. The top speed is then 30% higher, but consumption is 300% higher.

• The following rule of thumb is often used for fuel consumption of 4-stroke gasoline outboard motors: Fuel consumption in liters per hour at full power = ⅓ x power in horsepower (at 70% of full power, this consumption is halved). For a 40 hp outboard motor, this yields the following estimated fuel consumption: 13 liters per hour at full power and 10 liters per hour at 70%.

Manufacturing of the sloop

The sloop is manufactured in a mold. This is sprayed with a layer of gelcoat. Then, several layers of fiberglass impregnated with polyester are applied. Then, the floor, benches, and all other interior fittings are installed, and all interior parts are covered with a topcoat. After the material has hardened, the sloop is pressed out of the mold under pressure (either air or water). The resulting markings in the gelcoat in no way affect the quality of the sloop; they are merely surface impressions.

Flag

• According to etiquette, the following applies to the national flag, such as the Dutch flag: the flagpole of a national flag must be positioned straight and tilted backward in relation to the vessel's axis. Slightly to starboard is also permitted if this is not possible.
• You may fly the national flag on days from 08:00 (Sunday from 09:00) until sunset, but not later than 21:00 (22:00 summer time) if you are a boarder.
  
  

Maintenance

• Automatically schedule the aspects that recur every quarter in your digital calendar.
• Read the engine manual carefully (this can also be found on the engine's product page on our website). It contains all the important instructions for trouble-free operation. Break in a new fuel engine as follows: the first 15 minutes at minimum speed. Then 45 minutes at 10 to 30 percent of maximum power. The second hour at 50 to 80 percent of maximum power. Avoid operating at full power for more than 5 minutes during the next 10 hours.
• A combustion engine requires maintenance in accordance with the engine manual .
  Information on engine type, capacities, fuel and coolant type, troubleshooting and general information is included in the manufacturer's manual.
  It's important to have maintenance carried out by a specialist, if only for the warranty (keep your invoices for this purpose). The best time is after the boating season, so before winter. A standard service usually includes changing the engine oil (to prevent engine wear ) , replacing the oil and fuel filters (these can otherwise rupture, leading to engine damage), and possibly the anode of the (electrical and fuel) outboard motor. The anode metal provides protection against corrosion (if it has eroded, it must be replaced), particularly from saltwater. Never paint or cover the anodes. Once coated, they offer no protection against galvanic corrosion. If the anodes have deteriorated by 50% or more, they must be replaced.
  
• Check the oil level of a fuel-powered outboard motor every quarter.
• Check the starter battery on a fuel-powered outboard motor every quarter. If the battery is in good condition, the voltage should be between 12.4 and 12.7 volts, preferably no lower than 12.6 volts. A battery with a voltage lower than 12.2 volts should be charged immediately.
• Because your sloop is exposed daily to pollution such as acid rain, salt deposits, black streaks, or algae, it is also necessary to clean your sloop regularly.
  

  Proper cleaning prevents dirt from accumulating in the pores of the gelcoat. Every gelcoat is microporous. UV radiation ages the gelcoat, making it increasingly microporous. This causes dirt to settle deeper into the gelcoat, making it increasingly difficult to clean. A good wax layer protects the gelcoat from UV radiation and fills small micropores. This prevents dirt from adhering, and the gelcoat retains its shine and color much longer.

  First, remove any loose dirt with clean, lukewarm water. Then, thoroughly clean the boat with boat shampoo.

  The soap cleans the surface thoroughly without damaging the gelcoat and/or wax layer. Note: Household cleaners and detergents will degrease the surface and also remove the existing wax layer.

  To remove stubborn buildup (brown mustache), there's Acid Wash. This effective cleaner cleans deep into the pores.

  After cleaning or polishing, apply a new protective wax layer. This layer fills small pores and provides a sealed, water-repellent surface throughout the season, preventing dirt and water from adhering. This allows the gelcoat to retain its shine and color considerably longer.

  Besides soapy water and a brush, you can also clean the fender with a pressure washer. If the fender is damaged, you can also unscrew and turn it. If the fender has become frayed, you can burn off the wires with a lighter.
• You can fix shallow scratches by sanding with waterproof sandpaper, starting with 600 grit sandpaper with plenty of water, followed by 800 grit sandpaper. This is followed by polishing with a polish (such as Heavy Gloss Renovator). If a scratch penetrates the gelcoat, leaving a white scratch, you can also repair it with a gelcoat repair kit. Gelcoat is the first layer on a fiberglass boat. It determines the boat's color and acts as a barrier between water and the polyester laminate (which is not waterproof). Therefore, it's important to repair cracks or scratches in the gelcoat promptly. This prevents the polyester laminate from absorbing moisture.
  Oxidation, limescale and discolouration can also be remedied with polish.
• Small air bubbles (pin holes) in the gelcoat (visible polyester layer) or starburst damage can also be repaired. Blistering in the polyester is caused by osmosis. When a boat is in the water, water slowly penetrates the gelcoat to the underlying layers. In theory, all polyester sloops experience osmosis at some point, but some sloops experience it sooner than others. The development of osmosis depends on a number of factors. Fresh water increases the risk of osmosis. Higher temperatures accelerate the process. The length of time the boat is in the water compared to the time it is moored is also a factor. Ensure the sloop is stored out of the water as much as possible: for example, on a trailer or, if the sloop is stored at home, a boat lift is an alternative solution. For sloops that are in the water for more than three weeks per season, to prevent osmosis, five coats of waterproof epoxy primer must be applied under any antifouling paint after sanding with 80 grit.
  Water often forms in the bilge due to condensation, rainwater, spray, or other causes. Therefore, keep the inside of the boat dry, especially the bilge area. This also means that if these recommendations are not followed, any resulting osmosis, bubbles, gelcoat discoloration, cracks, hairline cracks, air voids, hull blisters, osmotic blistering, etc., will not be covered by the warranty. Osmosis will not cause a sloop to sink; without intervention, excessive laminate will be damaged, which will negatively impact the sloop's strength and rigidity. Usually, after examination, it turns out that the physical and/or chemical processes in such a hull can be addressed with limited or more extensive maintenance. Boat insurance from companies like Nationale Nederlanden can also cover osmosis damage for up to ten years.
• Don't use wire brushes or scouring pads on the hull. Small scratches can accumulate dirt. To protect the part of the boat below the waterline from algae growth, you can apply a self-polishing antifouling varnish, which provides excellent protection against fouling to the gelcoat layer. Consider a non-toxic alternative.
  Soft antifouling: also known as polishing, self-polishing antifouling. While sailing, the antifouling gradually wears off, releasing fresh copper and/or biocides. The advantage of this is that a thick layer doesn't form as with hard antifouling. However, it is necessary to sail frequently (read: polish) and to apply new antifouling every season. Soft antifouling is primarily used for slow-moving vessels. Applying soft antifouling to a fast sloop/tender is pointless, as the layer will wear off too quickly.
• Failing to apply antifouling to the underwater hull not only leads to the growth of a significant amount of slug (organism growth), but also has long-term negative consequences: The fouling creates additional drag and mass, slowing your sloop/tender by half a kilometer to as much as 3 kilometers per hour. Reaching the desired speed requires additional engine power. This results in higher fuel consumption, which can be as high as 20%.
  Marine fouling is most likely to occur when your boat is stationary. If you're not using your boat for a long time, consider storing it above water with a boat lift. Antifouling is inherently harmful to the environment, especially copper-based antifouling. PTFE/Teflon or silicone-based antifouling is more environmentally friendly, and International Interspeed Extra is
  relatively easier to apply.
  It's also possible to apply antifouling to the part of the motor housing and shaft that will be submerged in water for extended periods. For warranty purposes, not all types of antifouling are permitted. For example, the manufacturer of Torqeedo authorizes the use of International Trillux 33 in combination with Primocon Primer, or Hempel Sillic One in combination with Hempel Light Primer and Hempel Sillic One Tiecoat.
• Cushions: Regular washing with mild detergent or warm water is sufficient to keep the covers in good condition. Avoid getting the cushions wet and dry them thoroughly after washing to prevent mold. Place the cushions on the boat to allow air to circulate and spray them with a mold preventative. After sailing, the cushions should be stored away from the elements.
• The convertible top (also called a spray hood or boat cover) with a zipped-on cockpit cover can be folded or rolled up while sailing. Avoid sharp folds and kinks and ensure the windows lie flat, without wrinkles. First, open the window with the zippers at the front and fold it onto the roof. Release the sides and fold them onto the roof as well. Then fold the tube system in.
• Always store the spray hood dry, in a clean and ventilated area.
• Zippers and snaps should be kept in good working order by regularly spraying them with a Teflon spray (without grease). If the zipper entry point is metal, it should also be kept clean; the metal alloy of which the entry point is made can corrode due to the combination of moisture and salt.
• During the first few weeks, the hood may still allow limited water to pass through and may be stiff when installed.
• Reinstalling boat canvas or a boat cover: Never reinstall your boat cover at temperatures below 15 degrees Celsius. The windows in the boat cover will shrink due to lower temperatures, and there's a risk of tearing the cover. So, preferably in the sun, as the material will heat up.
• Before replacing the boat cover on the sloop, you must thoroughly clean it. If you don't, there's a high chance that the cleaned cover or a newly installed cover will quickly become moldy again. The presence of mycelium (a network of fungal roots) or mold spores is invisible to the naked eye.
• To close the boat cover, start by securing the windshield and work your way back. Use the quick-release fasteners to tighten and position the snap fasteners correctly. Sometimes it's necessary to have two people close the snap fasteners. If you're having trouble closing the cover (on your own), you can have a locking system like Easy Cabrio installed to make closing easier.
• Clean the boat cover with a soft brush (to protect the seams) and warm water. It's best to soak it for 24 hours first. Do not use green soap, vinegar, or a pressure washer. A special cleaning product is also an option, but this will remove the waterproof seal.
• You can take the canopy to a specialized laundry. During a wash, a tent undergoes several treatments. First, the dirt is sprayed off, and then the canvas is immersed in a kind of warm bath for a while. Afterward , the tent is hung to dry and re-impregnated. Impregnating reduces the risk of mold and algae adhering. It also makes the canvas extra water- and dirt-repellent. This also applies to the cushions. Do not impregnate the windows; let the canopy dry thoroughly. Finally, wet the canopy to see which parts are still not properly impregnated.
• If the hood has been laundered, it can be tricky to reattach. Because the foil can warm up a bit in the spring sunshine, it can stretch a bit, which makes it easier. If this doesn't work, dampen the hood with water. The fabric becomes more supple when wet. If all else fails, you can ask the sailmaker to reattach the snaps.
• The lifespan of a boat cover is approximately ten years. Have the stitching checked by a sailmaker after five years and then have it topstitched if necessary. This will save you money in the long run.
• If your sloop is equipped with HPL teak, protect it quarterly with a protective film, especially on the parts attached to the deck. For example, with Sjippie Dek UV Wax or HG laminate protector. It protects against wear, scratches, and other damage, masks dull spots and existing wear, and adds a shine. First, clean with water and a mild detergent. Do not use abrasives, scouring pads, limescale removers, or acidic cleaning agents. If the HPL teak is already weathered, use Riwax PVC Teak Coating.
  
• Stainless steel isn't completely rustproof. Keep your stainless steel fittings in top condition: Clean all stainless steel fittings regularly. Never use abrasives such as steel wool, acids, or bleach on stainless steel. Remove rust stains as soon as possible with chrome or brass polish. Pitches can form on the stainless steel surface. Use a high-quality car wax to protect the stainless steel. Regularly inspect your boat for the strength and appearance of bolts, screws, and clamps.

Winter storage

The warranty and boat insurance only provide coverage if sufficient care has been taken during winter storage. In other words, by following the advice in this manual.

• Fuel engine:
  • Disconnect the fuel tank. Let the engine run until it stops while the boat is still in the water (squeeze the bulb on the fuel hose a few times). Use the remaining fuel for your car. This can also be done during the annual maintenance.
  • Have a fuel outboard motor serviced annually by a certified specialist. The engine needs to be winterized. Winter storage is the best time of year, as waiting times are long in spring. This also prepares the engine for winter, preventing damage and ensuring a smooth start in the spring. Even with few hours of use, the engine has to endure a lot. Think of oxidation, corroding anodes, and changing the tailpiece oil. Changing the oil ensures that there's no water in it, which can cause damage.
• Electric motor, you can also do the annual maintenance yourself:
  • Turn off the system using the on/off button. Remove the magnetic key and turn off the battery master switch for safe operation.
  • Clean the control lever, shaft, and motor for a thorough inspection. Use a soft, damp cloth and, if necessary, a pH-neutral cleaner.
  • Check that the screws and bolts connecting the engine, electronics box and control lever to the boat are still properly secured.
  • For a remote control: check that it is undamaged and properly assembled. Clean it with a slightly damp, soft cloth if necessary. After cleaning, spray WD-40 between the housing and the handle and move it back and forth several times.
  • If the engine housing has paint damage, have it professionally touched up to prevent water damage due to corrosion.
  • Anode: If the anode is contaminated, clean it and lightly sand it so that the aluminum or zinc surface is clearly visible. If the anode is more than 50% degraded, replace it.
  • Disassemble the propeller and remove any aquatic plants and fishing line from the shaft. If fishing line is found, thoroughly inspect it to ensure it hasn't been caught between the shaft and the seal. If you have any doubts about damage to the seals or the shaft, contact a mechanic. Check the propeller for damage such as cracks, broken pieces, or deformations. If it shows any damage that causes the propeller to become unbalanced, it must be replaced.
  • Disconnect all data cables and connectors, check that the connections are clean and free of damage. Clean the electronic contacts with compressed air, spray the connections with contact cleaner, and reconnect everything.
    Check all power cables and connections for damage and wear. If they are damaged (cracks in the cable sheathing, deep kinks, connectors that no longer make good contact, or loose connections), they must be replaced. (See "Checklist for Battery Inspection, Cleaning, Maintenance, and Storage").
  • Enable the system. Check that the values ​​on the display and in the setup menu are set correctly and that the throttle functions properly in forward-neutral-reverse. When the engine is out of the water, run it only briefly at low power. Let the engine run and check that the shaft is straight. Lubricate the shaft with propeller shaft grease and install the propeller.
• All battery types:
  • To work safely, turn off the engine and any main switch and disconnect the battery from the engine and the battery charger by disconnecting the power and data cables.
  • Inspect all power connections for damage (cables, connectors, and terminals). Keep the terminals and connectors free of dust and corrosion. Corrosion (rust) on the terminals can affect battery performance and pose a safety risk. Carefully disconnect the battery terminals and clean any corrosion with a wire brush or battery terminal brush. Apply battery grease (acid-free Vaseline) to the battery terminals to prevent corrosion and thus voltage drop and contact resistance.
  • Dust and moisture penetrate all electrical equipment. The moisture penetrates the cables, wires, and contacts. This causes the color to turn green, which is "corrosion." The cable insulation then breaks down. Current flows poorly through the rust, which is called "contact resistance." The combination of dust and moisture causes a small current to flow from the cable. This is called leakage current. It then becomes warm/hot and can burn. This can cause a fire. Check this and use the main circuit breaker to prevent leakage current.
  • Check all data connections for damage (if present) and clean them with compressed air. Spray all data connections with contact spray; this removes oil, dirt, dust, flux residue, and condensation.
  • Store the battery in a dry and clean place with adequate ventilation.
  • The battery can be used connected to the engine in temperatures between -20 and 60 degrees Celsius. 60 degrees Celsius can sometimes be reached in the battery compartment on a very hot day, so ensure additional ventilation.
  • Disable the 12V onboard system. The area where the battery is located must be clean, dry, and well-ventilated. Turn off all appliances such as refrigerators and pumps, and only charge the batteries when someone is on board. Battery chargers and inverters can burn out.
• Lithium such as LFP / LiFePo4 batteries:
  • Make sure the battery is not exposed to extreme temperatures. High temperatures, in particular, can shorten its lifespan. Installing the battery in a well-ventilated location will reduce heat buildup and extend its lifespan. On a boat, temperatures can reach up to 65 degrees Celsius at 30 degrees Celsius. The ideal storage temperature for a battery is 15 to 25 degrees Celsius with a maximum humidity of 75 percent. Maximum 6 months between -10°C and 15°C and 25°C to 35°C, and maximum 1 month between 35°C and 45°C. Short-term 45°C to 60°C. 55–60°C for a few hours per day; occasionally: slightly accelerated aging effect. >60°C: Maximum 1–2 hours, very rarely risk of damage or BMS shutdown. >70°C: Not permitted; risk of irreparable damage or outgassing. Absolutely avoid temperatures above 60°C.
    Allow for a temperature difference of 35°C between the outside and inside temperatures (and 25°C with mechanical ventilation). Therefore, open the storage compartment containing the battery in the summer, check the temperature, and use additional ventilation.
    
  • You can sail between minus 10 and 45 degrees Celsius. At temperatures below minus 20 degrees Celsius and/or between 50 and 60 degrees Celsius, the lifespan is limited.
  • The optimal charge level (especially for long-term (winter) storage) is 45 to 50 % (or at least 30% and no more than 70%). Therefore, if possible, charge the battery the evening before sailing.
    Always charge a lithium battery at an ambient temperature of at least 5 degrees Celsius. In any case, avoid freezing temperatures, and preferably not above 45 degrees Celsius, and no higher than 50 degrees Celsius.
    Use a charger with an amperage capacity of at least 5% (charging time up to 20 hours) and a maximum of 50% of the battery capacity (charging time up to 2 hours). The lower the amperage, the better for the battery.
  • Charge the battery when the engine's main switch is turned off. This is especially true if the battery and engine brands are different. The final charge voltage could be too high and damage the engine.
  • The following table shows the state of charge (SOC) of a 12 / 24 or 48 Volt LFP LiFePO4 lithium battery based on the resting voltage (i.e. no engine load).

    Charge status table – 48V LiFePO₄ battery (resting voltage) SOC (%) 12V (V) 24V (V) 48V (V) 100 13.6 27.2 54.4 90 13.4 26.8 53.6 80 13.3 26.6 53.1 70 13.2 26.4 52.8 60 13.1 26.1 52.3 50 13.0 26.1 52.2 40 13.0 26.0 52.0 30 12.9 25.8 51.5 20 12.8 25.6 51.2 10 12.0 24.0 48.0 0 10.0 20.0 40.0

  • Lithium batteries can be irreparably damaged by deep discharge or overcharging. Damage due to deep discharge can occur when small loads slowly discharge the battery when the system is not in use. Examples of these loads include alarm systems, standby current from DC loads, and leakage current drain from battery chargers or charge controllers. Therefore, always disconnect the battery(ies). With a mains switch, you only need to turn it off. With an Anderson plug, you can easily disconnect it. With battery cables, disconnect the main positive and negative connections (first the negative connection, then the positive connection).
  • The battery will deteriorate more quickly if you draw a lot of power from it in a short time. You can extend the battery's lifespan by sailing more slowly, for example.
  • Try to minimize vibrations and shocks to the battery.
  • For parallel-connected batteries: check the voltage of each battery individually annually with a multimeter. If the voltage difference between the batteries is greater than 0.1 volt, there is an imbalance. In that case, contact a technical specialist.
    
  • For batteries connected in parallel or series: only use exactly the same brand and type.
• Semi-traction VRLA AGM lead-acid batteries (starter battery and possibly electric battery for electric motor):
  • It's important to never discharge the batteries by more than 80% (starter battery no more than 20%). It's also important to fully recharge AGM batteries immediately after sailing. If the battery is discharged too deeply, the warranty will be void, as will charging with a charger with too low or too high a capacity.
  • Below are the battery voltages for 12-volt, 24-volt, and 48-volt batteries (AGM and lead-acid (starter battery)), which indicate the remaining available capacity. This is based on the quiescent voltage (i.e., no engine load).

• 100%: 12.7 / 25.4 / 50.8 volts or higher
• 90% 12.6 / 25.2 / 50.4 volts
• 80% 12.5 / 25.0 / 50.0 volts
• 70% 12.3 / 24.6 / 49.2 volts
• 60% 12.2 / 24.4 / 48.8 volts: recharge
• 50% 12.1 / 24.1 / 48.2 volts
• 40% 11.9 / 23.8 / 47.6 volts. chance of shorter lifespan
• 30% 11.8 / 23.6 / 47.1 volts. chance of shorter lifespan
• 20% 11.5 / 23.0 / 46.1 volts. High risk of damage
• 10% 11.3 / 22.6 / 45.2 volts. High risk of damage
• 0% 10.9 / 21.8 / 43.6 volts high risk of damage

• • If the voltage is lower than 12.4 volts (24 volts: 24.8 volts 48 volts: 49.6 volts) a few hours after disconnecting the charger, it is best to replace the battery.
  • If you have multiple electric batteries for the electric motor: check the condition and correct voltage of all batteries while the boat is in the water. Use a multimeter. Measure the battery(s) under both loaded and unloaded conditions.
    Under load: Run the engine and measure the voltage of each battery individually with the multimeter by connecting the probes to the + and – terminals of the battery. After measuring, compare the results for each battery. The difference in voltage between the batteries should not exceed 0.1 volts.
    Unloaded: After charging, measure the batteries individually again and compare the results. Even in this situation, the voltage difference between the batteries should not exceed 0.1 volts. NOTE! If the voltage difference between the batteries is greater than 0.1 volt, there is an imbalance. It is important to eliminate this difference before storage. This creates voltage differences that can ultimately damage the batteries, engine, or other components.
  • Disconnect the battery(ies). With an Anderson connector, you can easily disconnect them. With battery cables, disconnect the main positive and negative connections (first the negative connection, then the positive connection). With a main circuit breaker, you only need to turn it off. If you have multiple batteries, you don't need to disconnect them from each other.
  • Charge the battery(ies) to 100%. The batteries have only a 1.5% self-discharge rate per month at a temperature of 10°C. This discharge rate doubles with every 10°C increase in temperature, resulting in a 3% self-discharge rate per month at a temperature of 20°C. Check the battery voltage every 10 weeks during storage and recharge the batteries to 100%. This applies to ambient temperatures above 0 degrees Celsius. A trickle charger is not necessary, but it is recommended. NOTE! At ambient temperatures around and below freezing, the battery voltage must be checked very regularly and the (starter) batteries must be charged to 100% to prevent damage from deep discharge. (The minimum voltage is 12.4 volts for a 12-volt battery (which gives you 80% capacity). At 24 volts, the minimum voltage is 24.8 volts, and at 48 volts, the minimum voltage is 49.6 volts. In these cases, a trickle charger with a temperature sensor is necessary. It is even better to store the battery frost-free during the winter on the trickle charger. This can be done indoors, or you can install a frost protector.
  • The electrochemical activity in a battery increases or decreases with ambient temperature changes. The charging voltage must be reduced as the temperature rises to prevent overcharging. The opposite is true at very low temperatures; the charging voltage must then be increased to prevent undercharging. Temperature compensation is required when the battery temperature is expected to be below 10°C or above 30°C for extended periods: temperatures common in boating applications. The recommended temperature compensation is -20 mV/°C for float use (standby) and -30 mV/°C (calculated from 25°C) for cycle use (cyclic use) for each individual 12V battery. Therefore, at 0°C: 25*+20mV= +0.5V. Despite the low self-discharge rate at At 0°C, it's important to maintain the charging voltage. At 100%, the charging voltage drops to 12.2 volts: the 40% discharge level, which is not good for the battery.
    The maximum charging voltage of the batteries is 14.6 Volt to 14.8 Volt in cycle use at 12 Volt (13.6 Volt to 13.8 Volt in float use).
  • Maintain the batteries with a float charge of approximately 13.2 volts and a periodic refresher charge (source: Victron, Electricity on Board). Minimum charging temperature: 0°C and maximum charging temperature: 50°C.
    
    
• Boat maintenance
• Place the engine in a frost-free place in a vertical position so that no water remains in the tailpiece.
• Pressure-wash the hull. It's recommended to clean the hull immediately after the boat is out of the water. If the fouling is still damp, it's easier to remove than if it's dried. A special environmentally friendly cleaning agent such as Radboud Bioclean will increase its effectiveness.
• Check the underwater hull for damage and touch up the gelcoat to prevent osmosis.
• After using the boat in saltwater, rinse the entire boat immediately with fresh water. If the boat is used primarily in saltwater, you should wax the hull once a month and apply a corrosion inhibitor to all metal parts.
• Impregnate the convertible top or have it impregnated at a specialist laundry.
• Remove cushions from the boat or stand them upright to prevent mold.
• Dry the bilge area and open it for extra ventilation. This will help prevent osmosis. If possible, open two ventilation points inside the boat to ensure airflow and prevent moisture from stagnating. Also, install a dehumidifier; do not use a heater.
• Prevent condensation: ensure that the room where the electrical installation is installed is sufficiently ventilated.
• Of course, for the preservation of your sloop, it's best to store it in a shed or otherwise under a tarpaulin. It's important to remove all water from the sloop, otherwise frost damage can occur. All water residue and condensation from the front and under the floor must be removed.
• The cost of winter storage indoors for a sloop up to 6 metres in length is approximately €500 to €600.
• Cover the sloop outdoors with a winter tent/cover; the cover is positioned with supports so that snow and ice can fall off. The cover should not be completely sealed, so that air can circulate beneath the cover. When storing the sloop for winter, it's important to ensure that no point loads are created. This can be prevented by placing the sloop on several large contact surfaces. Keep in mind that snow that accumulates on your sloop can easily weigh several hundred kilos! No sloop is designed to carry such a heavy load.

Theft

• Prevent theft by installing an SCM-approved outboard motor lock and a VbV/SCM-approved cable or chain lock (at least 1 centimeter thick) to secure the boat to the dock. These are available with the boat.
• With a track and trace system, you'll periodically receive the boat's location on your phone. The system is available with the boat.
• You can register your ownership of the sloop with the Land Registry using a Vessel Registration. The sloop will then be branded with a unique identification number. This is recorded in the Land Registry's register. When registering, you can also make the sloop less susceptible to theft with microdots. Microdots provide your sloop with additional protection against theft. While a brand can be removed, it's virtually impossible to remove all the microdots.
• When the sloop is on the sloop trailer If so, ensure you have an SCM-approved coupling lock (even if it's connected to a car) to prevent theft of the trailer and sloop (and, if parking on public roads, also a wheel clamp). These measures are also required by insurers.

Recycle

Polyester has a long lifespan. At the end of its lifespan, take the boat to a recycling facility. The polyester can be recycled into materials such as sheet piles or railway sleepers.

Insurance

Consider boat insurance (with boat trailer insurance if possible) that covers liability and any damage to or loss of your own boat. Univé, FBTO, and Nationale Nederlanden, among others, offer this. Also consider the extent to which you want to insure your boat's contents, rentals, frost damage, transport by water/land, or your own permanent mooring.

• For sloops with an engine power of more than 4 hp or 3 kW, your private liability insurance will not cover damage.
• With the Accident Coverage for Passengers you are insured if you suffer injury as a result of an accident with your sloop and you die or become permanently disabled as a result.
• With limited hull coverage, you are insured against damage to or loss of your sloop caused by: fire, explosion, direct lightning strike, storm, theft, and burglary; transport by road or water.
• Comprehensive coverage covers loss of and damage to your sloop if that loss or damage is caused by: collision, leaking, overvoltage/induction, vandalism, blackout and joy-sailing, frost, blistering of the polyester due to osmosis for up to 10 years (Nationale Nederlanden, FBTO up to 5 years), inherent defects of the engine and sloop and the inherent defect itself, and any other external calamity. In the case of inherent defects (inherent defects are a negative characteristic of materials), FBTO also insures everything mounted on the boat! It also covers the costs of emergency repairs to the boat, salvage and storage costs, costs to prevent or limit imminent damage, and expert fees. In the event of repairs, FBTO will cover the repair costs and material costs. Frost damage is also covered.
• For a sloop costing €15,000, a premium calculation at FBTO shows a monthly premium of €7 for Liability & Assistance, Collision & Own Damage with 10 claim-free years.
  
  

Transport

• Boat trailer : read the boat trailer manual for the safe transport, launching and taking out of the water of your sloop.
• Hoisting: If the boat must be lifted out of the water without a trailer, do not attach lifting cables to connectors, ski ears, or the railing. Use special lifting straps that go under the boat.
  Keep the bow slightly higher than the stern to prevent engine damage.