MANUAL FOR SLOOP AND TENDER

This manual is intended to provide you with an explanation of your sloop or tender and to help you use your sloop safely and with enjoyment.

The manual contains general information about your sloop, as well as information regarding safety, handling, and maintenance of your boat. We recommend that you read the manual carefully to familiarize yourself with the sloop and its equipment before the first voyage.

Please read this manual carefully and thoroughly before sailing your sloop. If, despite carefully reading this manual, anything is still unclear, please contact us.

Also read the tips for safe boating in this external document.

Please note! Find out what modifications you can make to the sloop yourself, and especially what you are not allowed to modify yourself. You could endanger your own safety, and the factory warranty may become void.

Recreational craft and personal watercraft built and imported in the Netherlands must comply with the Recreational Craft Act 2016. This law contains the requirements of the European Recreational Craft Directive. The boat complies with the relevant provisions of the Recreational Craft Directive 94/25/EC and amendments 003/44/EC of the European Parliament. The CE marking means that the boat complies with all current standards and guidelines of the International Organization for Standards (ISO) that were in force at the time of construction.
If a vessel meets all requirements, the manufacturer may apply the CE marking. The abbreviation CE stands for Conformité Européenne. Products with a CE sticker comply with the European requirements for that product group.

Sellers of vessels who place their own brand name on the vessel are also considered manufacturers under the law. They therefore have the same responsibility and obligations as the manufacturer. In the Netherlands, the Human Environment and Transport Inspectorate supervises the Recreational Craft Act 2016. In Belgium, the FPS Mobility and Transport supervises, and a registration letter is also required for boats whose owner has a connection to Belgium. Marinaut supports the application process for the registration letter.

The manufacturer can demonstrate in various ways how the requirements of the Recreational Craft Act 2016 have been met. Depending on the design category and the length of the vessel, an assessment by an approved inspection body is mandatory.

The manufacturer compiles a technical file. With this, the manufacturer must be able to demonstrate that the vessel meets the safety requirements. The technical file must also show which standards (for example, the harmonized ISO standards) have been used to assess whether the vessel meets the requirements. The manufacturer must keep the technical file for at least 10 years after delivery of the vessel. The technical file contains:

• A general description of the type;
• Design and manufacturing drawings and diagrams, including explanations thereof;
• The results of design calculations and investigations;
• Test reports or calculations (especially stability and buoyancy);
• Reports demonstrating compliance with noise and exhaust emissions;
• A list of applied standards and/or a description of other solutions to meet the essential requirements;
• The certificates, reports, and records of the involved inspection body (if applicable);

User manual

The manufacturer provides a vessel-specific user manual (Dutch or English).

Declaration of Conformity

The manufacturer also draws up a Dutch declaration of conformity. The declaration of conformity is supplied with the sloop. This declaration must at least contain:

• a description of the vessel;
• the manufacturer's contact details;
• the standards against which the vessel has been tested;
• if applicable: a reference to the involved inspection body;
• if applicable: the certificate of the inspection body.
  
  

Fast Sloop

If your Sloop with the mounted outboard motor can travel faster than 20 kilometres per hour, then you will need to register your sloop as a fast motorboat. You will also need to display registration marks on the sloop. You must have the fast motorboat registration certificate on board along with your identification, and to operate the sloop, you must possess a valid boating license.

A registration certificate (Y-number) is mandatory for fast motorboats. You can apply for the registration certificate online with the RDW. When sailing, the registration certificate must be on board. The Y-number must be on both sides of the vessel. If you sell your fast motorboat, the new owner must register the boat in their name. The transfer of the registration certificate from private individual to private individual can be done via the RDW website. A certificate of indemnity for a fast motorboat will not be issued.

Water skiing and wakeboarding are only permitted in areas designated for these sports. When water skiing, in addition to the boat driver, a second person of at least 15 years of age must be on board, who continuously watches the skier(s) and the immediate surroundings. Water skiing must not cause unsafe situations or nuisance to others. Furthermore, the same rules apply as for operating a fast motorboat.

Requirements:

• The registration mark (Y-number) must be on both sides. Clearly visible, in a contrasting colour to the background, and with legal dimensions.
• The registration certificate of the fast motorboat and the skipper's boating license must be on board.
• The engine must be in good technical condition, so it does not smoke and cause nuisance. There must be no risk of fire or explosion.
• The exhaust must have a silencer to prevent noise pollution.
• The steering system must function flawlessly.
• An engine cut-off switch (kill switch) is mandatory. The switch immediately stops the engine if the driver falls overboard. This requirement does not apply to enclosed internal steering.
• For each occupant, a life jacket must be within reach.
• A ready-to-use and approved fire extinguisher of at least 2 kilograms must be on board.
• The most recent text of the BPR (Binnenvaartpolitiereglement) must be on board in printed or digital form. This is not required on an 'open' fast motorboat (i.e., without a cabin).

The driver of a fast motorboat must:
• Be at least 18 years old.
• Use the kill switch (this requirement does not apply to enclosed internal steering).
• Sit in the driver's position while sailing, unless standing steering is safe.
• Wear a life jacket when steering a fast motorboat while standing, except with enclosed internal steering.
• Prevent hindering or endangering other water users.
• Adhere to the permitted sailing speeds indicated on signs and official nautical charts.
• Prevent the boat engine from making unnecessary noise or running unnecessarily when the vessel is stationary.
• Adhere to alcohol consumption rules. The permitted alcohol limit is 0.5 per mille. These rules for alcohol consumption also apply to the skipper (if they are not also the driver).

Safe boating, what do you need?

Every boat, however strong, can be damaged if handled improperly. Irresponsible and dangerous activities are incompatible with safe boating. The speed of the boat must always be adapted to the weather conditions. 

Underwater obstacles are dangerous. You should try to avoid them, although of course, sometimes you simply don't notice them. If the boat sails over rocks, the hull will probably get scratched. Unfortunately, it also happens that the hull is perforated or torn open, causing the boat to sink. How to prevent it? The only way is to study the chart and analyze where the shallows are. It is also good to ask others who are familiar with the boating area.

Another unpleasant situation can be a dark cloud on the horizon. If there is a chance of a storm, you should go to the harbour or shore as quickly as possible and seek refuge in a safe place. Also, keep an eye on the weather via your phone. 

The crew must be familiar with all emergency equipment. The crew must also be familiar with rescue maneuvers in case of rescue, towing, or other emergencies such as a man overboard.

Before departure, make sure that the following is on board (and we strongly recommend you actually take care of it):

Safety equipment:

• Life jackets
• Bilge pump or bailer
• Separate tow line
• Anchor with anchor line
• Anchor ball
• Signal horn
• Boat and engine manual
• Current nautical charts
• Tools and spare parts for equipment and engine
• Sufficient fuel
• Fire extinguisher
• First aid kit including fire blanket
• Make sure you always have an (extendable) paddle (with boat hook) on board.
• Spare keys for the sloop
• Fully charged mobile phone
• Optionally a marine radio or emergency beacon
• Tiller with paddle
• Sunglasses and protective cream
  As the owner of the sloop, you are SOLELY responsible for purchasing this safety equipment! The mandatory safety equipment on a sloop may vary depending on the area or type of water where you will be sailing the sloop.  Also consider protection against cold and food and drinks. 

• Tips for safe boating
• • Start with good preparation. Refuel, check, think! Refuel in good time. Check your sloop, the engine, the oil level. Check the weather forecast. Use your common sense on the water and think ahead. Check for any obstructions, also called impediments, on your route. 
• • Know the navigation rules, buoys, signs, and signals. See the Inland Waterways Police Regulations (BPR).
  • Keep to the right or starboard side of the waterway.
  • Use the recreational channels, identifiable by special buoyage.
  • Look carefully around you and also regularly behind you. This way you will see approaching vessels in time.
  • Stay out of the blind spot of cargo ships. A rule of thumb: if you can see the skipper, the skipper can see you too.
  • Give inland vessels space. Maintain distance where possible.
  • Maintain a clear course, so other skippers know what you are doing.
  • Pay attention to your speed. Ensure that others are not bothered by your bow and stern waves and suction.
  • Preferably use a marine radio. This way you stay informed (by listening) and can contact other skippers, bridge and lock keepers.
  • Do not suddenly change course and speed.
  • Be well prepared for your trip, use up-to-date nautical charts and follow the weather forecast.
  • Use navigation lights in good time.
  • Ensure you have good all-round visibility and check behind you regularly.
  • Do not create unnecessary waves.
  • Do not anchor near bridges, locks, working vessels with deployed anchors, under high-voltage cables, and in the middle of a waterway.
  • Avoid tacking on busy waterways and keep the middle clear for large vessels.
  • Ensure you are visible to other vessels.
  • Sail alcohol-free. The legal limit on the water is 0.5 per mille. It is not permitted to operate a boat under the influence of drugs or alcohol. The combination of noise and vibrations, sun, wind, and movement causes fatigue on the water. The effects of alcohol are greater on the water than on land.
  • Navigate smoothly and safely through bridges and locks.
  • Stay away from fishing nets. These are usually marked by black or yellow flags.
  • Swimming in parts of the waterway intended for through traffic, near bridges, locks, and waiting areas is prohibited.
• Bridge lights, bridges in operation: Red lights always indicate that passage is prohibited, unless additional yellow lights are flashing. Then you may pass. 
• Bridges out of service: double red lights always indicate that the bridge is not being operated and that passage is prohibited, unless additional yellow lights are flashing. Then you may pass.
• Most important right-of-way rules: large (usually commercial vessels) take precedence over small. These are usually vessels longer than 20 metres. They are limited in their manoeuvres and cannot stop the vessel quickly. Stay away and especially do not sail in front of them. Such a vessel often has a blind spot in front of the bow, meaning the skipper cannot see you (properly). If you cannot see the wheelhouse yourself, the skipper cannot see you either!
• Starboard side has right of way: On a marked waterway, for example, a channel (red and green buoys) or a natural waterway (river/canal), whoever keeps strictly to the starboard side has right of way.
• Sail takes precedence over muscle power, takes precedence over motor: (Small) sailing vessels take precedence over (muscle-powered vessels) rowing boats/canoes, and these in turn take precedence over (small) motor vessels. So: sail takes precedence over muscle power, takes precedence over motor. 
• Motor vessels among themselves: Vessel coming from starboard takes precedence on open water without buoyage. When on opposing courses, both yield to starboard.
• But above all, good seamanship applies! This means that you must always try to prevent a collision, even if you have right of way. If possible, try to cross another vessel astern rather than ahead.
• Do not use gas lamps in the sloop.
• Do not swim when the engine is running. You could come into contact with the propeller.
• Do not sail under the influence (alcohol or drugs). The combination of noise, vibrations, sun, wind, and movement causes fatigue on the water. The effects of alcohol are therefore greater on the water than on land. Warning: operating a vessel under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs is both dangerous and legally prohibited.
• Do not use the sloop if you suspect the steering system is not working.
• While sailing, no one should be on the foredeck or on the edge of the seats. Avoid standing in the sloop and always use life jackets. 
• Always attach the engine's kill cord to the driver.
• Crew: A critical look at the composition of the crew is certainly useful.
• Who can take over command of the ship if the skipper becomes incapacitated? In a family crew consisting of a father, mother, and small children, there is often only one adult who has their hands free to navigate. It is important that in such a situation both parents have independently the same theoretical and practical experience. With small children on board, limit yourselves to trips of no more than a few hours and stay near harbours. 
• Communication on the water: The best way to do this is via a marine radio. A marine radio is not mandatory for small vessels, but it is recommended. Your phone does not always have reception on the water. In an emergency, everyone on board must know how to operate the marine radio. No marine radio on board? Fully charge your phone before departure.
• Safety also has to do with knowledge and skill. Knowledge can be acquired by following the necessary courses and training. Skill is mainly a matter of experience, so do a lot.
• If sailing with a group:
  • Ensure everyone on board knows how to act in an emergency. Such as:
    • Seek a sheltered spot if possible and drop your anchor. 

    • First ensure your own safety, then you can more easily help others.Take some time beforehand to determine who will do what if, for example, the weather turns or the engine malfunctions halfway through the trip.

      Even if your crew has extensive experience, it doesn't mean they have experience with your specific boat.Therefore, explain how the boat sails, where the anchor is located, and how the marine radio or emergency beacon works.This way, you keep a cool head during stressful situations and are well prepared for your trip!

      An emergency beacon like a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) is valuable in an emergency. A PLB can be taken and used anywhere. This means they are not only suitable for water sports but also for other outdoor activities. The big advantage is that a PLB works anywhere in the world and is very compact and lightweight and can easily be carried on a life jacket.

Environmental aspects

• Avoid fuel and oil leakage at all times.
• Avoid noise pollution at all times. Music and loud conversations can carry very far, especially at night.
• Adhere to the maximum speed – avoid forming waves in the vicinity of other vessels.
• Use as few cleaning agents, paint, and other substances as possible.
• Avoid discharging cleaning agents into the water: clean the boat on land, where these agents can be collected.
• Do not use flammable solvents to clean the bilge.
• Do not use solvents and detergents. Household cleaning products should be used sparingly and should not be thrown into the water. Never mix cleaning products and ensure good ventilation of enclosed spaces. Do not use products containing phosphates, chlorine, solvents, or non-biodegradable or petroleum-based products. Citrus-based products are an excellent cleaning agent for marine equipment, they are safe for people and the environment.
  
• Do not use abrasive cleaners, solvents, ammonia, or chlorine as these will damage the gelcoat surface.
• Increased exhaust emissions pollute water and air. Therefore, keep your engine tuned and the hull of your boat clean. The cruising speed is the economic speed at which a boat can move as efficiently as possible. This speed is always a trade-off between speed and fuel consumption. The economic speed is 70% of the hull speed, so for a boat length of:

• 8 meters = 9 kilometers per hour;
• 7 meters = 8 kilometers per hour;
• 6 meters = 8 kilometers per hour;
• 5 meters = 7 kilometers per hour;
• 4 meters = 6 kilometers per hour;
• 3 meters = 6 kilometers per hour.

For hull speed, you need as much as 3 times the power of the economic speed. Then you consume a lot and only achieve a 30% higher speed.
So in almost all cases, it is best to sail between 6 and 9 kilometers per hour with a boat of 3 to 8 meters. The top speed is then 30% higher, but the consumption is 300% higher.

• As a rule of thumb for the consumption of 4-stroke petrol outboard motors, the following is often used. Consumption in liters per hour at full power = ⅓ x horsepower (at 70% of full power, this consumption is halved). For a 40 hp outboard motor, this results in the following estimated consumption: 13 liters per hour at full power and 10 liters per hour at 70%.

Sloop manufacturing

The sloop is manufactured in a mold. This is sprayed with a layer of lacquer, the gelcoat. Then, several layers of polyester-soaked fiberglass are applied. After that, the floor, benches, and all other built-in parts are assembled, and all inner parts are again covered with a lacquer, the topcoat. After the material has cured, the sloop is pressed out of the mold under (air or water) pressure. The markings in the gelcoat that result from this do not affect the quality of the sloop in any way. These are merely surface impressions.

Flag

• According to etiquette, the following applies to the national flag, such as the Dutch flag. The flagpole of a national flag must be placed straight and leaning backward in the axis of the vessel; slightly to starboard is also allowed if this is not possible.
• You may fly the national flag on days from 08:00 (Sunday from 09:00) until sunset, but no later than 21:00 (22:00 during daylight saving time) when you are on board.
  
  

Maintenance

• Schedule all quarterly aspects automatically in your digital calendar.
• Read the engine manual carefully (it is also on the engine's product page on our site). It contains all important instructions for trouble-free operation. A new fuel engine should be broken in as follows: first fifteen minutes at minimum speed. Then three-quarters of an hour at 10 to 30 percent of maximum power. The second hour at 50 to 80 percent of maximum power. For the subsequent 10 hours, avoid running at full power for longer than 5 minutes.
• A fuel engine requires maintenance according to the engine manual.
  Information about the engine type, capacities, fuel and coolant type, troubleshooting, and general information are included in the manufacturer's manual.
  It is important to have maintenance performed by a specialist, if only for the warranty (keep the invoices for this purpose). The best time is after the sailing season, so before winter. A standard service usually includes changing the engine oil (to prevent wear in the engine), replacing the oil filter and fuel filter (otherwise they can tear, leading to engine damage), and possibly the anode of the (electric and fuel) outboard motor. The anode metal provides protection against corrosion damage (if it is corroded away, it must be replaced), especially by salt water. Never paint or cover the anodes. Once coated, they offer no protection against galvanic corrosion. If the anodes have deteriorated by 50% or more, they must be replaced.
  
• Check the oil level of a fuel outboard engine quarterly.
• Check the starter battery of a fuel outboard engine quarterly. If the battery is in good condition, the voltage is between 12.4 and 12.7 volts, preferably not lower than 12.6 Volts. A battery with a voltage lower than 12.2 volts must be recharged immediately.
• Because your sloop is daily exposed to pollution such as acid rain, salt deposits, black streaks, or algae, it is also necessary to clean your sloop regularly.
  

  Thorough cleaning prevents dirt from adhering in the pores of the gelcoat. Every gelcoat is microporous. Due to UV radiation, the gelcoat ages and will become increasingly 'microporous'. As a result, dirt will settle deeper and deeper into the gelcoat and become increasingly difficult to clean. A good wax layer protects the gelcoat against UV radiation and fills small micropores. This will make it harder for dirt to adhere and the gelcoat will retain its shine and color much longer.

  First, remove all loose dirt with clean lukewarm water. Then clean the sloop thoroughly with boat shampoo.

  The soap cleans the surface well without affecting the gelcoat and/or wax layer. Please note! Household cleaners and cleaning agents degrease the surface and will also remove any existing wax layer.

  For removing stubborn deposits ('brown mustache'), there is Acid wash. This effective cleaner cleans deep into the pores.

  After cleaning or polishing, apply a new protective wax layer. A layer that fills small pores and provides a closed, water-repellent surface throughout the season where dirt and water hardly adhere. This significantly preserves the gelcoat's shine and color.

  In addition to soap and a brush, you can also clean the fender rope with a high-pressure washer. If damaged, you can also unscrew and turn the fender rope. If the fender rope has become frayed, you can burn off the loose threads with a lighter.
• Shallow scratches can be removed by sanding with waterproof sandpaper, starting with grit 600 with plenty of water, followed by grit 800. Follow this by polishing with a polishing compound (e.g., Heavy Gloss Renovator). If you have a scratch that goes through the gelcoat, leaving a white scratch, you can also repair it with a gelcoat repair kit. Gelcoat is the first layer on a polyester boat. It determines the color of your boat and is the barrier between the water and your polyester laminate (which is not waterproof). Therefore, it is important to repair cracks or scratches in the gelcoat in time. This prevents the polyester laminate from absorbing moisture.
  Oxidation, limescale, and discoloration can also be remedied with polishing compound.
• Small air bubbles (pinholes) in the gelcoat (visible layer of Polyester) or star damage can also be remedied. Blistering in the polyester due to osmosis. When a boat is in the water, water slowly penetrates the gelcoat to the underlying layers. In theory, all polyester sloops will eventually experience osmosis. Some sloops earlier than others. The formation of osmosis depends on many factors. Fresh water increases the chance of osmosis. A higher temperature accelerates the process. The period the boat is in the water compared to the period on shore is also a factor. Ensure the sloop is stored out of the water as much as possible: for example, on a trailer or, for a sloop at home, a boat lift is an alternative solution. For sloops that are in the water for more than 3 weeks per season, to prevent osmosis, 5 layers of waterproof epoxy primer must be applied under any antifouling after sanding with grit 80.
  Water often accumulates in the bilge due to condensation, rainwater, splashing water, or other causes. Therefore, also keep the inside of the boat dry, especially the bilge area. This also means that if these recommendations are not followed, any osmosis, bubbles, gelcoat discoloration, cracks, hairline cracks, air cavities, hull blisters, osmotic blistering, etc., will not be covered by warranty. Osmosis alone will not sink a sloop, but without intervention, too much laminate will be affected, which does not benefit the strength and rigidity of the sloop. Usually, after investigation, it turns out that the physical and/or chemical processes in such a boat hull can be addressed with limited or major maintenance. Boat insurance, for example from Nationale Nederlanden, can also compensate for osmosis damage for even the first ten years.
• Do not use steel brushes or abrasive sponges on the underwater hull. Small scratches can accumulate dirt. To protect the part of the sloop below the waterline from algae growth, you can apply a self-polishing antifouling paint that provides very good protection to the gelcoat layer against fouling. Consider a non-toxic variant.
  Soft antifouling: also known as polishing self-polishing antifouling. While sailing, the antifouling gradually wears off, releasing fresh copper and/or biocides. The advantage of this is that no thick layer is formed as with hard antifouling. However, it is necessary to sail (read: abrade) sufficiently and that new antifouling must be applied every season. Soft antifouling is mainly used for slow-moving vessels. Applying soft antifouling to a fast sloop/tender is pointless, as the layer will wear off too quickly.
• Not applying antifouling to the underwater hull not only leads to the growth of a significant beard (growth of organisms) but also has long-term detrimental effects: The growth creates extra resistance and mass, causing your sloop/tender to sail half to up to 3 kilometers per hour slower. To achieve the desired speed, extra engine power is needed. This leads to higher fuel consumption, which can increase up to 20%.
  You mainly get growth when your boat is stationary. If you don't use your boat for a long time, consider storing it above water with a boat lift. Antifouling is inherently not good for the environment, especially copper-containing ones. PTFE/Teflon or silicone-based antifoulings are more environmentally friendly, and International Interspeed Extra is relatively easier to apply.
  It is also possible to apply antifouling to the part of the engine housing and shaft that remains in the water for an extended period. From a warranty perspective, not all types of antifouling are allowed. For example, the manufacturer of Torqeedo allows the use of International Trillux 33 in combination with Primocon Primer or Hempel Sillic One in combination with Hempel Light Primer and Hempel Sillic One Tiecoat.
• Even more environmentally friendly is Finsulate. Note: when hoisting, slowly build up tension with a plastic sleeve around the lifting straps. Trailering: a piece of cardboard on the bilge and keel rollers.
• Cushions: regular washing with a mild detergent or warm water is sufficient to keep the covers in good condition. Prevent the cushions from getting wet and dry them thoroughly after washing to prevent mold growth. Place the cushions on the boat to allow air to circulate and spray them with an anti-mold agent. The cushions should be stored protected from weather conditions after sailing.
• The convertible top (also called sprayhood or boat cover) with zipped cockpit cover can be folded or rolled up when sailing. Avoid sharp folds and kinks and ensure that the windows lie flat, without creases. First, open the window with the zippers and fold the window onto the roof. Detach the sides and also fold them onto the roof. Then fold in the tube system.
• Always store the sprayhood dry, in a clean and ventilated area.
• Zippers and snap fasteners must be kept smooth by regularly spraying them with a Teflon spray (without grease). If the entry piece of the zipper is metal, it must also be kept clean; the metal alloy from which the entry piece is made can corrode due to the combination of moisture and salt.
• In the first few weeks, the cover may still allow limited water through and be stiff during assembly.
• Reassembling boat canvas or boat cover: Never reattach your boat cover at a temperature below 15 degrees Celsius. The windows in the boat cover will shrink due to lower temperatures, and there is a risk that you will tear the cover. So preferably in the sun, then the material will warm up.
• Before placing the boat cover back on the sloop, you must clean the sloop very thoroughly. If you do not do this, there is a very high chance that the cleaned cover or a newly installed boat cover will quickly become moldy again. The presence of a mycelium (network of roots of a fungus) or the spores of a fungus are not visible to the naked eye.
• You close the boat cover by starting with securing the front window and then working your way backward. Use the quick-release fasteners to pull and thus correctly position the snap closures. Sometimes it is necessary to close the snap closures with 2 people. If you find it difficult to close the cover (alone), you can have a closing system like Easy Cabrio installed, which makes closing easier.
• Clean the boat cover with a soft brush, to protect the seams, and warm water. Preferably soak for 24 hours first. Do not use green soap or vinegar or a high-pressure cleaner. A special cleaning product can also be used, but then the waterproof impregnation may disappear.
• You can take the cover to a specialized laundry. During a wash, a tent undergoes various treatments. First, the dirt is sprayed off, and then the canvas is placed in a kind of warm dip bath for some time. After that, the tent is hung to dry and then re-impregnated. By impregnating, you reduce the chance of molds and algae adhering. This also makes the fabric extra water and dirt-repellent. This also applies to the cushion set. Do not impregnate the windows and let the cover dry thoroughly. Finally, wet the cover and see which parts have not been properly impregnated.
• If the hood has been to the laundry, it can be difficult to put it back. Because the foil can warm up slightly in a spring sun, it can stretch a bit, which makes it easier. If this doesn't work, moisten the hood with water. The fabric becomes a bit more flexible when wet. If all the above doesn't help, the sailmaker can be asked to reattach the snaps.
• The lifespan of a boat cover is about ten years. After 5 years, have the stitching checked by a sailmaker and then have it restitched if necessary. This will save you costs in the long run.
• If the sloop is equipped with HPL teak, protect the teak quarterly with a protective film. Especially on the parts that are attached to the deck outside. For example, with Sjippie Dek UV-Wax, or HG laminate protector. Protects against wear, scratches and other damage, masks dull spots and existing wear spots, and gives shine). First clean with water and a mild cleaning agent. Do not use abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, descaling agents, or acidic cleaning agents. If the HPL teak is already weathered, use Riwax PVC Teak Coating.
  
• Stainless steel is not completely rust-proof. Keep the stainless steel fittings in the best condition: Clean all stainless steel fittings regularly. Never use abrasive cleaners such as steel wool, acids or bleaches on stainless steel. Remove rust stains as soon as possible with chrome or brass polish. Pitting may form and remain on the surface of the stainless steel. Use high-quality car wax to protect the stainless steel. Regularly inspect your sloop for the firmness and appearance of bolts, screws, and clamps.

Winter Storage

The warranty and boat insurance only cover damage if sufficient care has been taken for winter storage. In other words, by applying the advice in this manual.

• Fuel engine:
  • Disconnect the fuel tank. Run the engine until it stops while the boat is still in the water (squeeze the bulb on the fuel hose several times). Use the remaining fuel for your car. This can also be done during the annual maintenance service.
  • Have a fuel outboard engine serviced annually by an authorized specialist. The engine needs to be prepared for winter. The best time for winter storage is in the autumn; in spring, waiting times are long. Also, the engine will then be prepared for winter to prevent damage and ensure a smooth start in spring. Even with few operating hours, the engine still undergoes significant stress. Consider corrosion and anodes being eaten away, and the replacement of gear oil. By changing the oil, you ensure there is no water inside, which could cause damage.
• Electric motor, you can also do the annual maintenance yourself:
  • Turn off the system with the on/off button. Remove the magnetic key and turn the main battery switch to the off position to work safely.
  • Clean the control handle, shaft, and motor for proper inspection. Use a soft damp cloth and, if necessary, pH-neutral cleaner.
  • Check if the screws and bolts connecting the motor, the electronics box, and the control handle to the boat are still securely fastened.
  • For a remote control: check if it is free of damage and properly mounted. Clean it with a lightly damp soft cloth if necessary. After cleaning, spray WD40 between the housing and the handle and move it back and forth a few times.
  • If the motor housing has paint damage, have it professionally repaired to prevent water damage from corrosion.
  • Anode: if the anode is dirty, clean and lightly sand it until the aluminum or zinc surface is clearly visible. Replace the anode if more than 50% degraded.
  • Disassemble the propeller and remove any aquatic plants and fishing line from the shaft. If fishing line is found, thoroughly inspect if it was not caught between the shaft and the seal. If you have doubts about damage to the seals or shaft, contact a mechanic. Check the propeller for damage such as cracks, broken pieces, or deformities. If it shows damage that causes the propeller to be out of balance, it must be replaced.
  • Disassemble all data cables and connectors, check that the connections are clean and free of damage. Clean the electronic contacts with compressed air, spray the connections with contact cleaner and reconnect everything.
    Check all power cables and connections for damage and wear. If they are damaged (cracks in the cable sheath, deep kinks in the cable, plugs that no longer make good contact, or loose connections), they must be replaced. (see “Checklist Inspection, cleaning, maintenance, and storage of batteries”).
  • Turn on the system. Check that the values on the display and in the setup menu are set correctly and that the throttle functions properly in forward-neutral-reverse. If the engine is out of the water, run it only briefly and at low power. Run the engine and check that the shaft is straight. Grease the shaft with propeller shaft grease and mount the propeller.
• All battery types:
  • Turn off the engine and any main switch to work safely and disconnect the battery from the engine and battery charger by disconnecting the power cables and data cables.
  • Inspect all power connections for damage (cables, connectors, and pole clamps). Keep the terminals and connectors free of dust and corrosion. Corrosion (rust) on the terminals can affect battery performance and pose a safety risk. Carefully loosen the battery clamps, clean any corrosion with a wire brush or battery terminal brush. Apply battery grease (acid-free petroleum jelly) to the battery terminals to prevent corrosion and thus voltage loss and contact resistance.
  • Dust and moisture creep into all electrical equipment. The moisture creeps into the cables, wires, and contacts. Then the color turns green, which is “corrosion”. The insulation of the cables then breaks down. The current has difficulty passing through the rust, called “contact resistance”. As a result of the combination of dust and moisture, a small current comes out of the cable. We call this leakage current. It then gets warm/hot and can burn. The result is that a fire can occur. Check for this and use the main ground switch to prevent leakage current.
  • Check all data connections for damage (if any) and clean them with compressed air. Spray all data connections with contact cleaner, which cleans oil, dirt, dust, flux residue, and condensation.
  • Store the battery in a dry and clean area with adequate ventilation.
  • The battery can be used connected to the engine in temperatures between -20 and 60 degrees Celsius. 60 degrees can sometimes be reached in the battery compartment on a very hot day, so ensure extra ventilation.
  • Turn off the 12V onboard system. The area where the battery is located must be clean, dry, and well-ventilated. Turn off all equipment such as refrigerators and pumps and only charge the batteries when someone is on board. Battery chargers and inverters can sometimes burn out.
• Lithium such as LFP / LiFePo4 batteries:
  • Ensure that the battery is not exposed to extreme temperatures. Especially high temperatures can shorten the battery's lifespan. By installing the battery in a well-ventilated place, the battery will heat up less and last longer. In a boat, the temperature can reach up to 65 degrees at 30 degrees ambient temperature. The ideal storage temperature for the battery is 15 to 25 degrees Celsius with a maximum humidity of 75 percent. Maximum 6 months between -10°C and 15°C and 25°C to 35°C and maximum 1 month 35°C - 45°C. Short-term 45°C to 60°C. 55–60°C a few hours per day, occasionally: slight accelerated aging effect, >60°C Maximum 1–2 hours, very rarely risk of damage or BMS shutdown, >70°C Not allowed, risk of irreparable damage or gassing. Absolutely avoid above 60°C.
    Account for a 35°C difference between outside and inside temperature (and 25°C with mechanical ventilation). So open the locker where the battery is stored in summer, check the temperature, and use additional ventilation.
    
  • You can sail between minus 10 and 45 degrees Celsius. At temperatures below minus 20 degrees and/or between 50 and 60 degrees, the lifespan is limited.
  • The optimal state of charge (especially for long (winter) storage) is 45 to 50% (or at least 30% and maximum 70%). So, if possible, only charge the evening before sailing.
    Always charge a lithium battery at an ambient temperature of at least 5 degrees. In any case, do not charge when freezing and preferably not above 45 degrees and maximum 50 degrees.
    Use a charger with an Ampere capacity of at least 5% (charging time maximum 20 hours) to maximum 50% of the battery capacity (charging time maximum 2 hours). The lower, the better for the battery.
  • Charge the battery when the engine's main switch is off. Especially if the battery and engine brands differ. The final charging voltage can be too high and damage the engine.
  • The following table shows the state of charge (SOC) of a 12, 24 or 48 Volt LFP LiFePO4 lithium battery based on the resting voltage (i.e. no engine load).

    Charge Status Table – LFP/LiFePO₄ Battery (resting voltage) SOC (%) 12 V 24 V 48 V Overcharged 16.0 32.0 64.0 Charging Voltage 14.2-14.6 28.4-29.2 56.8-58,4 100 13.6 27.2 54.4 90 13.4 26.8 53.6 80 13.3 26.6 53.1 70 13.2 26.4 52.8 60 13.1 26.1 52.3 50 13.0 26.1 52.2 40 13.0 26.0 52.0 30 12.9 25.8 51.5 20 12.8 25.6 51.2 10 12.0 24.0 48.0 0, very deep discharge 10.0 20.0 40.0

    
    
  • Lithium batteries can be irreparably damaged by very deep discharge or overcharging. Damage due to deep discharge can occur if small loads slowly discharge the battery when the system is not in use. Some examples of these loads are alarm systems, standby current from DC loads, and leakage current from battery chargers or charge controllers. Always disconnect the battery(ies). For a main power switch, you only need to turn it off. With an Anderson plug, you can easily disconnect it. For battery cables, disconnect the main positive and negative connections (first the negative connection, then the positive connection).
  • The battery will degrade faster if you draw a lot of energy from it in a short time. For example, by sailing slower, you can extend the battery's lifespan.
  • Try to minimize vibrations and shocks to the battery.
  • For parallel connected batteries: check the voltage of all individual batteries annually with a multimeter. If the voltage difference between the batteries is greater than 0.1 Volt, there is an imbalance. In this case, contact a technical specialist.
    
  • For parallel or series connected batteries: only use exactly the same brand and type.
• Semi-traction VRLA AGM lead-acid batteries (starter battery and possibly electric battery for electric motor):
  • It is important never to discharge the batteries more than 80% (starter battery no more than 20%). It is also important to fully recharge the AGM batteries immediately after sailing. In case of excessive discharge, the warranty will be void, as will charging with a charger with too low or too high capacity.
  • Below are the battery voltages for 12 volt, 24 volt and 48 volt batteries (AGM and lead-acid (starter battery)) that indicate how much capacity is still available. Based on the resting voltage (i.e. no engine load).

• 100%: 12.7 / 25.4 / 50.8 volts or higher
• 90% 12.6 / 25.2 / 50.4 volts
• 80% 12.5 / 25.0 / 50.0 volts
• 70% 12.3 / 24.6 / 49.2 volts
• 60% 12.2 / 24.4 / 48.8 volts: recharge
• 50% 12.1 / 24.1 / 48.2 volts
• 40% 11.9 / 23.8 / 47.6 volts. risk of shorter lifespan
• 30% 11.8 / 23.6 / 47.1 volts. risk of shorter lifespan
• 20% 11.5 / 23.0 / 46.1 volts. high risk of damage
• 10% 11.3 / 22.6 / 45.2 volts. high risk of damage
• 0% 10.9 / 21.8 / 43.6 volts high risk of damage

• • If the voltage a few hours after disconnecting the charger is lower than 12.4 volts (24 volts: 24.8 volts 48 volts: 49.6 volts), it is best to replace the battery.
  • For multiple electric battery(s) for electric motor: check the condition and correct voltage of all batteries when the boat is in the water. Use a multimeter for this. Measure the battery(s) under loaded and unloaded conditions.
    -Loaded: Let the motor run and measure the voltage of all individual batteries with the multimeter by placing the probes on the + and – terminals of the battery. After measuring, compare the results of the individual batteries. The mutual difference between the voltage of the batteries may not be more than 0.1 Volt.
    -Unloaded: After charging, measure the batteries again individually and compare the results again. In this situation too, the voltage difference between the batteries may not be greater than 0.1 Volt. NOTE! If the voltage difference between the batteries is greater than 0.1 Volt, there is an imbalance. It is important to eliminate this difference before the storage period. This can create voltage differences which can ultimately lead to damage to the batteries, motor or other components.
  • Disconnect the battery(s). With an Anderson plug, you can easily disconnect it. With battery cables, you disconnect the main plus and minus connection (first the minus connection then the plus connection). With a main power switch, you only need to turn it off. With multiple batteries, you do not need to disconnect the batteries from each other.
  • Charge the battery(s) to 100%. The batteries have only 1.5% self-discharge per month at a temperature of 10°C. This discharge rate doubles with every 10°C temperature increase, so 3% self-discharge per month at a temperature of 20°C. Check the battery voltage every 10 weeks during the storage period and recharge the batteries to 100%. This applies to an ambient temperature above 0 degrees. A trickle charger is not necessary but is recommended. NOTE! At an ambient temperature around and below freezing point, the battery voltage must be checked very regularly and the (starter) batteries charged to 100% to prevent damage due to deep discharge (the minimum voltage is 12.4 Volts for a 12 Volt battery (then you have 80% capacity). For 24 volts, the minimum voltage is 24.8 Volts and for 48 Volts, the minimum voltage is 49.6 Volts. Then a trickle charger with temperature sensor is necessary. It is even better to store them frost-free in winter with a trickle charger. This can be indoors or place a frost guard.
  • The electrochemical activity in a battery increases or decreases as the ambient temperature changes. The charging voltage must be lowered when the temperature rises to prevent overcharging. The opposite applies at very low temperatures; the charging voltage must then be increased to prevent undercharging. Temperature compensation is required when the battery temperature is expected to be lower than 10°C or higher than 30°C for an extended period: for boat application common temperatures. The recommended temperature compensation is -20 mV/°C for float use (standby) and -30 mV/°C (calculated from 25°C) for cycle use (cyclical use) for each individual 12V battery). So at 0°C: 25*+20mV= +0.5Volt. So despite the low self-discharge at 0°C, it is important to maintain the charging voltage. At 100%, the charging voltage drops to 12.2 Volts: the level of 40% discharge and that is not good for the battery.
    The maximum charging voltage of the batteries is 14.6 Volts to 14.8 Volts for cycle use at 12 Volts (13.6 Volts to 13.8 Volts in float use).
  • Maintain the batteries with a trickle charging voltage of approximately 13.2 Volts and a periodic refresh charge (source: Victron, Elektriciteit aan Boord). Minimum charging temperature: 0°C and maximum charging temperature: 50°C.
    
    
• Boat maintenance
• Place the engine in a frost-free place in a vertical position so that no water remains in the stern drive.
• Spray the underwater hull with high pressure. It is advisable to clean the underwater hull immediately when the sloop comes out of the water. If the fouling is still wet, it is easier to remove than when it has dried. A special environmentally friendly cleaning agent such as Radboud Bioclean ensures higher effectiveness.
• Check the underwater hull for damage and paint the gelcoat to prevent osmosis.
• After sailing in salt water, immediately rinse the entire boat with fresh water. If the boat is mainly used in salt water, you should wax the hull once a month with a wax layer and apply a corrosion inhibitor to all metal parts.
• Impregnate the convertible top or have it impregnated at a specialized laundry.
• Remove cushions from board, or place them upright to prevent mold.
• Dry the bilge compartment and open it for extra ventilation. This prevents osmosis earlier. If possible, open 2 ventilation points in the boat to ensure air circulation and prevent moisture from lingering. Also place a dehumidifier, do not use a heater.
• Prevent condensation: ensure that the space of the electrical installation can ventilate sufficiently.
• Of course, for the preservation of your sloop, it is best to store it in a shed or otherwise under a tarpaulin. It is important to remove all water from the sloop, otherwise frost damage can occur. In addition, all water residues and condensation must be gone from the front and under the floor.
• The cost for indoor winter storage for a sloop with a length of up to 6 meters is approximately € 500 to € 600.
• Cover the sloop outdoors with a winter tent / winter cover; the canvas is set up with supports so that snow and ice can fall off. The cover must not completely seal, so that air can circulate under the canvas. With every winter storage, it is important to ensure that no point load occurs. You prevent this by placing the sloop on several large contact surfaces. Remember that snow lying on your sloop can easily weigh a few hundred kilograms! No sloop is built to bear such a large load.

Theft

• Prevent theft by installing an SCM approved outboard motor lock and an additional VbV/SCM approved cable or chain lock (with a thickness of at least 1 centimeter) with which the sloop is secured to the quay. These are available with the sloop.
• With a track and trace system, you periodically receive the location of the sloop on your phone. The system is available with the sloop.
• At the Land Registry, you can register that you are the owner of the sloop with a Ship Registration. The sloop then receives a brand mark with a unique identification number. This is recorded in the Land Registry register. During registration, you can also make the sloop less attractive for theft with microdots. With microdots, your sloop is extra secured against theft. A brand mark can be removed, but it is almost impossible to remove all microdots.
• If the sloop is on the sloop trailer , make sure to use an SCM approved coupling lock (even if it is coupled to a car) to prevent theft of the trailer and sloop (and when parking on public roads, an additional wheel clamp). These measures are also required by insurers.

Recycling

Polyester has a long lifespan. At the end of its life, bring the boat to a recycling company. It is possible to process the polyester, for example, into sheet piling or railway sleepers.

Insurance

Consider boat insurance (possibly with boat trailer insurance) that covers liability damage and any damage or loss of your own sloop. Univé, FBTO, and Nationale Nederlanden, among others, offer these. Also check to what extent you want to insure the contents, rental, frost damage, transport over water/land, or your own permanent berth through the boat insurance.

• For sloops with an engine power of more than 4 hp or 3kW, your private liability insurance does not cover the damage.
• With the Accident Occupants coverage, you are insured if you suffer injury due to an accident with your sloop and you die or become permanently disabled as a result.
• With limited hull coverage, you are insured for damage to or loss of your sloop if it is caused by: fire, explosion, direct lightning strike, storm, theft and burglary; transport by road or by water.
• Full hull coverage provides coverage for loss of and damage to your sloop if that loss or damage is caused or arises from: collision, leakage, overvoltage/induction, vandalism; embezzlement and joy-sailing, frost, blistering in the polyester due to osmosis for up to 10 years (Nationale Nederlanden, FBTO up to 5 years), inherent defect of the engine and sloop and the inherent defect itself, any other external disaster. In case of inherent defect (Inherent defect = a bad quality that materials should not have), FBTO also insures everything mounted on the boat! In addition, costs of emergency repair of the boat, costs of salvage and storage, costs to prevent or limit directly threatening damage, and costs of experts. In case of repair, FBTO pays the repair costs and the material costs. Frost damage is also insured.
• For a sloop of 15,000 euros, a premium calculation at FBTO shows a monthly premium of 7 euros for Liability & Assistance, Collision & Inherent Defect with 10 claim-free years.
  
  

Transport

• Boat trailer: read the manual boat trailer for safe transport and launching and retrieving your sloop.
• Hoisting: If the boat needs to be removed from the water without a trailer, do not attach hoisting cables to connectors, ski eyes, or the railing. Use special hoisting straps that go under the boat.
  Keep the bow slightly higher than the stern to prevent engine damage.