Manual for sloop and tender

This manual is intended to provide you with information about your sloop or tender and to help you use your Sloop safely and enjoyably.

The manual contains general data about your sloop as well as information regarding safety, handling, and maintenance of your boat. We recommend that you read the manual carefully to familiarize yourself with the sloop and its equipment before your first voyage.

Read this manual thoroughly and attentively before you start boating with your sloop. If, despite carefully reading this manual, something remains unclear, please contact us.

Also read the tips for safe boating from "Varen doe je Samen!"

Please note! Inquire about which modifications you can make to the sloop yourself, and especially what you are not allowed to change. You could put your own safety at risk, and the manufacturer's warranty may be voided.

Pleasure craft and personal watercraft built and imported in the Netherlands must comply with the Recreational Craft Act 2016 (Wet pleziervaartuigen 2016). This act contains the requirements from the European Recreational Craft Directive. The boat complies with the relevant provisions of the Recreational Craft Directive 94/25/EC and amendments 2003/44/EC of the European Parliament. The CE marking means that the boat complies with all current International Organization for Standardization (ISO) norms and directives that were in force at the time of construction.
If a craft meets all requirements, the manufacturer is authorized to affix the CE marking. The abbreviation CE stands for Conformité Européenne (European Conformity). Products with a CE sticker meet the European requirements for that product group.

Sellers of craft who place their own brand name on the craft are also considered manufacturers under the law. They therefore have the same responsibility and obligations as the manufacturer. In the Netherlands, the Human Environment and Transport Inspectorate (ILT) supervises compliance with the Recreational Craft Act 2016. In Belgium, the FPS Mobility and Transport supervises compliance, and a registration certificate is required for boats whose owner has a connection to Belgium. Marinaut assists with the application process for the registration certificate.

The manufacturer can demonstrate in various ways how the requirements of the Recreational Craft Act 2016 have been met. Depending on the design category and the length of the craft, an inspection by an accredited notified body may be mandatory.

The manufacturer compiles a technical file. With this file, the manufacturer must be able to demonstrate that the craft meets the safety requirements. The technical file must also show which standards (e.g., harmonized ISO standards) were used to test whether the craft meets the requirements. The manufacturer must keep the technical file for at least 10 years after the craft has been delivered. The technical file includes:

• A general description of the type;
• Design and manufacturing drawings and schemes, including explanations;
• The results of design calculations and studies;
• Test reports or calculations (particularly regarding stability and buoyancy);
• Reports demonstrating compliance with noise and exhaust emission requirements;
• A list of applied standards and/or a description of other solutions to meet the essential requirements;
• The certificates, reports, and statements from the involved notified body (if applicable);

User manual

The manufacturer provides a craft-specific user manual (Dutch or English).

Declaration of conformity

The manufacturer also draws up a Dutch-language declaration of conformity. The declaration of conformity is supplied with the sloop. This declaration contains at least:

• a description of the craft;
• the contact details of the manufacturer;
• the standards against which the craft was tested;
• if applicable: a reference to the involved notified body;
• if applicable: the certificate from the notified body.
  
  

Fast sloop

When your sloop with the mounted outboard engine can travel faster than 20 kilometers per hour, you will have to register your sloop as a fast motorboat. You must also display registration marks on the sloop. You must have the fast motorboat registration certificate on board along with your ID, and to operate the sloop, you must be in possession of a valid boating license.

A registration certificate (Y-number) is mandatory for fast motorboats. You can apply for the registration certificate online at the RDW. When you are sailing, the registration certificate must be on board. The Y-number must be on both sides of the vessel. If you sell your fast motorboat, the new owner must transfer the boat to their name. The transfer of the registration certificate from private individual to private individual can be done via the RDW website. No indemnification certificate is issued for a fast motorboat.

Waterskiing and wakeboarding are only allowed in areas designated for this sport. During waterskiing, in addition to the boat driver, a second person of at least 15 years of age must be on board, who constantly watches the skier(s) and the immediate surroundings. Waterskiing must not cause unsafe situations or nuisance to others. Furthermore, the same rules apply as for sailing with a fast motorboat.

Requirements:

• The registration mark (Y-number) must be on both sides. Clearly visible, in a color that contrasts with the background, and with legal dimensions.
• The registration certificate of the fast motorboat and the skipper's boating license must be on board.
• The engine must be technically sound so that it does not smoke or cause a nuisance. There must be no risk of fire or explosion.
• The exhaust must have a silencer to prevent noise pollution.
• The steering system must function flawlessly.
• An engine cut-off switch (kill cord) is mandatory. The switch stops the engine immediately if the driver falls overboard. This requirement does not apply to closed interior steering.
• A life jacket must be within reach for every person on board.
• A ready-to-use and inspected fire extinguisher with a minimum of 2 kilograms must be on board.
• The most recent text of the BPR (Inland Navigation Police Regulations) must be on board in printed or digital form. This is not required on an 'open' fast motorboat (i.e., without a cabin).

The driver of a fast motorboat must:
• Be at least 18 years old.
• Use the kill cord (this requirement does not apply to closed interior steering).
• Be seated at the driving position while sailing, unless standing steering can be done safely.
• Wear a life jacket when standing while driving a fast motorboat, except with closed interior steering.
• Avoid hindering or endangering other water users.
• Adhere to the permitted speeds stated on signs and on official water charts.
• Prevent the boat engine from making unnecessary noise or running unnecessarily when the vessel is stationary.
• Adhere to the rules for alcohol consumption. The permitted blood alcohol level is 0.5. These rules for alcohol consumption also apply to the skipper (in case they are not also the driver).

Safe sailing, what do you need for that?

Every boat, no matter how strong it is, can be damaged if handled incorrectly. Irresponsible and dangerous activities are incompatible with safe swimming. The speed of the boat must always be adapted to weather conditions.

Underwater obstacles are dangerous. You must try to avoid them, although you sometimes just don't notice them. If the boat sails over stones, the hull will likely be scratched. Unfortunately, it also happens that the hull is punctured or torn open, which can cause the boat to sink. How to prevent it? The only way out is to study the chart and analyze where the shallows are. It is also good to ask others who are familiar with the sailing area.

Another unpleasant situation can be a dark cloud on the horizon. If there is a chance of a storm, you should go to the harbor or the coast as quickly as possible and seek refuge in a safe place. Also, keep an eye on the weather via your phone.

The crew must be familiar with all emergency equipment. The crew must also be familiar with rescue maneuvers for rescue, towing, or other emergency situations such as a man overboard.

Before departure, be sure that the following is on board (and we strongly recommend that you actually take care of this):

Safety equipment:

• Life jackets
• Bilge pump or bailer
• Separate tow line
• Anchor with anchor line
• Anchor ball
• Signal horn
• Boat and engine manual
• Current water charts
• Tools and spare parts for equipment and engine
• Sufficient fuel
• Fire extinguisher
• First aid kit including fire blanket
• Ensure that you always have an (extendable) rowing paddle (with boat hook) on board.
• Spare keys for the sloop
• Fully charged mobile phone
• Possibly a marine radio or emergency beacon
• Tiller with paddle
• Sunglasses and protective cream
  As the owner of the sloop, you are YOURSELF responsible for the purchase of this safety equipment! The mandatory safety equipment on a sloop can differ per area or the type of water where you are going to sail with the sloop. Also, think about protection against cold and food and drink.

• Tips for safe sailing
• • Start with good preparation. Fuel, check, think! Top up fuel in time. Check your sloop, the engine, the oil level. Check the weather forecast. Use your common sense on the water and think ahead. Check for any obstacles, also known as closures, on your route.
• • Know the sailing rules, buoys, signs, and signals. See the Inland Navigation Police Regulations (BPR).
  • Sail on the right or on the starboard side.
  • Use the recreational channels, recognizable by special buoyage.
  • Look around you well and also look behind you regularly. Then you will see approaching ships in time.
  • Stay out of the blind spot of cargo ships. A rule of thumb: if you can see the skipper, the skipper can also see you.
  • Give inland vessels space. Keep your distance where possible.
  • Sail a clear course, so that other skippers know what you are doing.
  • Pay attention to your speed. Ensure that others are not bothered by your bow and stern waves and suction.
  • Preferably use a marine radio. This keeps you informed (by listening) and you can contact other skippers, bridge and lock keepers.
  • Do not suddenly change course and speed.
  • Go on a trip well-prepared, use current nautical charts, and follow the weather forecast.
  • Use navigation lights in time.
  • Ensure you have good visibility all around and look behind you regularly.
  • Do not create unnecessary wave action.
  • Do not anchor near bridges, locks, work vessels with deployed anchors, under high-voltage cables, and in the middle of a waterway.
  • Avoid tacking in busy sailing routes and keep the middle free for large ships.
  • Ensure that you are visible to other ships.
  • Sail alcohol-free. The legal limit on the water is 0.5 per mille. It is not permitted to operate a boat under the influence of drugs or alcohol. The combination of noise and vibrations, sun, wind, and movement causes fatigue on the water. The effects of alcohol are greater on the water than on land.
  • Sail quickly and safely through bridges and locks.
  • Stay away from fishing nets. These are usually marked by black or yellow flags.
  • Swimming in parts of the fairway intended for through traffic, near bridges, locks, and waiting areas is prohibited.
• Bridge lights for bridges in operation: Red lights always indicate that passage is prohibited, unless extra yellow lights are burning. Then you may pass through.
• Bridges out of operation: double red lights always indicate that the bridge is not being operated and that passage is prohibited, unless extra yellow lights are burning. Then you may pass through.
• Main priority rules: large (usually commercial shipping) has priority over small. These are usually ships longer than 20 meters. These are limited in their maneuvers and cannot stop the ship quickly. Stay away and, above all, do not sail in front of them. Such a ship often has a blind spot in front of the bow, so the skipper cannot see you (well). If you cannot see the wheelhouse yourself, the skipper cannot see you either!
• Starboard side has priority. On a marked waterway, for example, a sailing channel (red and green buoys) or a natural waterway (river/canal), the one who keeps strictly to the starboard side has priority.
• Sail has priority over muscle, has priority over motor. (Small) sailing vessels have priority over (vessels powered by muscle power) rowboats/canoes, and these, in turn, have priority over (small) motor vessels. So: sail has priority over muscle, has priority over motor.
• Motor vessels among themselves. Coming from the starboard side has priority in open water without buoyage. On opposing courses, both give way to starboard.
• But above all applies: good seamanship! This means that you must try to prevent a collision at all times, even if you have priority. Try, if possible, to cross behind another vessel instead of in front.
• Do not use gas lamps in the sloop.
• Do not swim when the engine is running. You could come into contact with the propeller.
• Do not sail under the influence (alcohol or drugs). The combination of noise, vibrations, sun, wind, and movement causes fatigue on the water. The effects of alcohol are therefore greater on the water than on land. Warning: operating a vessel under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs is both dangerous and legally prohibited.
• Do not use the sloop if you suspect that the steering system is not working.
• While sailing, no one may be on the foredeck or on the edge of the seats. Avoid standing in the sloop and always use life jackets.
• Always attach the engine's man-overboard cord to the driver.
• Crew: A critical look at the composition of the crew is certainly useful.
• Who can take command of the ship if the skipper becomes incapacitated? In a family crew consisting of a father, mother, and small children, there is often only one adult who has their hands free to sail. It is important that in such a situation, both parents have the same theoretical and practical experience, independently of each other. With small children on board, limit yourself to trips of at most a few hours and stay in the vicinity of harbors.
• Communicating on the water: This is best done via a marine radio. A marine radio is not mandatory for small vessels, but it is recommended. Your phone does not always have reception on the water. In case of emergency, everyone on board must know how the marine radio works. No marine radio on board? Charge your phone fully before departure.
• Safety also has to do with knowledge and skills. Knowledge can be acquired by taking the necessary courses and training. Skill is mainly a matter of experience, so do it often.
• If you are sailing in a group:
  • Ensure everyone on board knows how to act in case of an emergency. Such as
    • Find a sheltered place if possible and drop your anchor.

    • Ensure you bring yourself to safety first, then you can help others more easily.Take some time beforehand to record who will do what if, for example, the weather turns or the engine has a breakdown halfway through the trip.

      Even if your crew has a lot of experience, this does not mean they have experience with your specific boat.Therefore, explain how the boat handles, where the anchor is, and how any marine radio or emergency beacon works.This way, you keep a cool head during stressful situations and go on your journey well-prepared!

      An emergency beacon such as a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) is valuable in an emergency situation. A PLB can be taken and used anywhere. This means they are not only suitable for water sports, but also for other outdoor activities. The big advantage is that a PLB works everywhere in the world and is very compact and light, making it easy to attach to a life jacket.

Environmental aspects

• Avoid fuel and oil leaks at all times.
• Avoid noise pollution at all times. Music and loud conversations can carry very far, especially at night.
• Adhere to the speed limit – avoid creating wakes in the vicinity of other vessels.
• Use as few cleaning agents, paints, and other substances as possible.
• Avoid discharging cleaning agents into the water: clean the sloop on land, where these substances can be collected.
• Do not use flammable solvents to clean the hold.
• Do not use solvents and detergents. Household cleaners should be used sparingly and must not be thrown into the water. Never mix cleaning agents and ensure good ventilation of enclosed spaces. Do not use products that contain phosphates, chlorine, solvents, or non-biodegradable or gasoline-based products. Citrus-based products are an excellent cleaning agent for ship equipment; they are safe for people and the environment.
  
• Do not use abrasive cleaners, solvents, ammonia, or chlorine as these damage the gelcoat surface.
• Increased exhaust emissions pollute water and air. Therefore, keep your engine tuned and the hull of your sloop clean. The cruising speed is the economical speed at which a boat can travel as efficiently as possible. This speed is always a balance between speed and fuel consumption. The economical speed is 70% of the hull speed, so for a boat length of:

• 8 meters = 9 kilometers per hour;
• 7 meters = 8 kilometers per hour;
• 6 meters = 8 kilometers per hour;
• 5 meters = 7 kilometers per hour;
• 4 meters = 6 kilometers per hour;
• 3 meters = 6 kilometers per hour.

To reach hull speed, you need as much as 3 times the power required for the economical speed. You will then consume a lot more and achieve only a 30% higher speed.
So, in almost all cases, it is best to sail between 6 and 9 kilometers per hour for a boat of 3 to 8 meters. The top speed is 30% higher, but consumption is 300% higher.

• As a rule of thumb for the consumption of 4-stroke gasoline outboard engines, the following is often used. Consumption in liters per hour at full power = ⅓ x power in hp (at 70% of full power, this consumption is halved). For a 40 hp outboard engine, this results in the following estimated consumption: 13 liters per hour at full power and 10 liters per hour at 70%.

Manufacturing of the sloop

The sloop is manufactured in a mold. This is sprayed with a lacquer layer, the gelcoat. Then, several layers of fiberglass soaked in polyester are laid on it. The floor, benches, and all other interior parts are then installed, and all inner parts are covered once more with a lacquer, the topcoat. After the material has cured, the sloop is pressed out of the mold under (air or water) pressure. The markings in the gelcoat that arise from this do not in any way affect the quality of the sloop. These are merely surface impressions.

Flag

• According to etiquette, the following applies to the national flag, such as the Dutch flag. The flagpole of a national flag must be placed straight and inclined backwards on the axis of the vessel; slightly to starboard is also allowed if this is not possible.
• You may fly the national flag on days from 08:00 (Sunday from 09:00) until sunset, but no later than 21:00 (22:00 during summer time) if you are on board.
  
  

Maintenance

• Schedule the quarterly recurring aspects automatically in your digital calendar.
• Read the engine manual carefully (this can also be found on the engine product page on our site). It contains all important instructions for trouble-free sailing. A new fuel engine should be broken in as follows: the first fifteen minutes at minimum speed. Then forty-five minutes at 10 to 30 percent of maximum power. The second hour at 50 to 80 percent of maximum power. For the following 10 hours, avoid sailing at full power for longer than 5 minutes.
• A fuel engine requires maintenance in accordance with the engine manual.
  Information about the engine type, capacities, fuel and coolant type, troubleshooting, and general information is included in the manufacturer's manual.
  It is important to have maintenance performed by a maintenance specialist, if only for the warranty (keep the invoices for this purpose). The best time is after the sailing season, so before winter. A standard service usually includes changing the engine oil (to prevent wear in the engine), replacing the oil filter and fuel filter (otherwise these can tear, leading to engine damage), and possibly replacing the anode of the (electric and fuel) outboard engine. The anode metal provides protection against corrosion damage (if it is corroded away, it must be replaced), particularly in salt water. Never paint or cover the anodes. Once coated, they offer no protection against galvanic corrosion. If the anodes have deteriorated by 50% or more, they must be replaced.
  
• Check the oil level of a fuel outboard engine every quarter.
• Check the starter battery of a fuel outboard engine every quarter. If the battery is in good condition, the voltage is between 12.4 and 12.7 volts, preferably not lower than 12.6 volts. A battery with a voltage lower than 12.2 volts must be recharged immediately.
• Because your sloop is exposed daily to pollution such as acid rain, salt deposits, black streaks, or algae, it is also necessary to clean your sloop with some regularity.
  

  Proper cleaning prevents dirt from adhering in the pores of the gelcoat. Every gelcoat is microporous. Due to UV radiation, the gelcoat ages and will become increasingly 'microporous'. As a result, dirt will settle deeper and deeper into the gelcoat, making it increasingly difficult to clean. A good wax layer protects the gelcoat against UV radiation and fills small micropores. This prevents dirt from adhering as quickly and allows the gelcoat to retain its shine and color much longer.

  First remove all loose dirt with clean, lukewarm water. Then clean the sloop thoroughly with boat shampoo.

  The soap cleans the surface thoroughly without affecting the gelcoat and/or wax layer. Note! Household cleaners and detergents degrease the surface and will also remove the existing wax layer.

  For removing stubborn deposits ('brown whiskers'), there is Acid wash. This effective cleaner cleans deep into the pores.

  After cleaning or polishing, apply a new protective wax layer. A layer that fills small pores and provides a closed, water-repellent surface for the entire season to which dirt and water do not easily adhere. This allows the gelcoat to retain its shine and color significantly longer.

  In addition to soap and a brush, you can also spray the rub rail with a pressure washer. You can also unscrew and rotate the rub rail after damage. If the rub rail has become frayed, you can burn away the loose threads with a lighter.
• Resolve shallow scratches by sanding with waterproof sandpaper, starting with grit 600 with plenty of water, followed by grit 800. Follow this by polishing with polishing agent (e.g., Heavy Gloss Renovator). If you have a scratch that goes through the gelcoat, resulting in a white scratch, you can also repair it with a gelcoat repair kit. Gelcoat is the first layer on a polyester ship. It determines the color of your ship and is the barrier between the water and your polyester laminate (which is not waterproof). It is therefore important to repair cracks or scratches in the gelcoat in a timely manner. This prevents the polyester laminate from absorbing moisture.
  Oxidation, limescale, and discoloration can also be remedied with polishing agent.
• Small air bubbles (pinholes) in the gelcoat (visible polyester layer) or star damage can also be repaired. Blister formation in the polyester due to osmosis. When a boat is in the water, water slowly penetrates through the gelcoat to the underlying layers. In theory, all polyester sloops will one day deal with osmosis. One sloop sooner than the other. The development of osmosis depends on a large number of factors. Fresh water increases the chance of osmosis. A higher temperature accelerates the process. The period the boat is in the water compared to the period on the shore is also a factor. Ensure the sloop is stored out of the water as much as possible: for example, on a trailer, or for a sloop at home, a boat lift is an alternative solution. For sloops that remain in the water for more than 3 weeks per season, it also applies that, to prevent osmosis, 5 layers of waterproof epoxy primer must be applied under any anti-fouling after sanding with grit 80.
  Water often collects in the bilge due to condensation, rainwater, splashing water, or other causes. Therefore, also keep the boat dry on the inside, especially the bilge area. This also means that if these recommendations are not followed, any resulting osmosis, bubbles, gelcoat discoloration, cracks, hairline cracks, air cavities, hull blisters, osmotic blistering, etc., are not covered under warranty. A sloop will not simply sink from osmosis, but without intervention, too much laminate will be affected, which does not benefit the strength and rigidity of the sloop. Usually, after investigation, it appears that the physical and/or chemical processes in such a ship's hull can be well addressed with limited or major maintenance. Boat insurance, such as from Nationale Nederlanden, can even cover osmosis damage during the first ten years.
• Do not use steel brushes or scouring pads on the underwater hull. Small scratches can accumulate dirt. To protect the part of the sloop below the water surface against algae growth, you can apply a self-polishing anti-fouling paint, which offers the gelcoat layer very good protection against fouling. Consider a poison-free variant.
  Soft anti-fouling: also known as polishing self-polishing anti-fouling. During sailing, the anti-fouling gradually wears off, releasing fresh copper and/or biocides. The advantage of this is that no thick layer is formed as with hard anti-fouling. However, it is necessary to sail (read: polish) sufficiently and that new anti-fouling must be applied every season. Soft anti-fouling is mainly used for slow-sailing vessels. Applying soft anti-fouling to a fast sloop/tender makes no sense, as the layer would wear off too quickly.
• Not applying anti-fouling to the underwater hull not only leads to the growth of a substantial beard (growth of organisms), but also has adverse consequences in the longer term: The growth provides extra resistance and mass, causing your sloop/tender to sail half to as much as 3 kilometers per hour slower. To achieve the desired speed, extra power is required from the engine. This leads to higher fuel consumption, which can increase up to 20%.
  You mainly get fouling if your boat is stationary. If you do not use your boat for a long time, consider storing it above water with a boat lift. Anti-fouling is by definition not good for the environment, especially copper-based ones. PTFE/Teflon or silicone-based anti-foulings are more environmentally friendly, and International Interspeed Extra is relatively easier to apply.
  It is also possible to apply anti-fouling to the part of the engine housing and the shaft that hangs in the water for a longer period. From a warranty perspective, it is not permitted to use all types of anti-fouling. The manufacturer of Torqeedo, for example, gives permission for the use of International Trillux 33 in combination with Primocon Primer or Hempel Sillic One in combination with Hempel Light Primer and Hempel Sillic One Tiecoat.
• Even more environmentally friendly is Finsulate. NB when hoisting, build up tension slowly with plastic covers around the hoist straps. Trailering: piece of cardboard on keel rollers and bilge rollers.
• Cushions: washing regularly with a mild detergent or warm water is sufficient to keep the covers in good condition. Prevent the cushions from getting wet and dry them well after washing to prevent mold formation. Place the cushions on the boat to allow air to circulate and spray them with an anti-fungal agent. After sailing, the cushions should be stored protected from weather conditions.
• The convertible top (also called sprayhood or boat cover) with zipped cockpit cover can be folded or rolled up when sailing. Avoid sharp folds and kinks and ensure the windows lie flat, without folds. First, open the window with the front zippers and fold the window onto the roof. Detach the sides and also fold them onto the roof. Then fold in the tube system.
• Always store the sprayhood dry, in a clean and ventilated space.
• Zippers and press studs must be kept operational by regularly spraying them with a Teflon spray (without grease). If the slider of the zipper is made of metal, it must also be kept clean; the metal alloy from which the slider is made can corrode due to the combination of moisture and salt.
• In the first few weeks, the cover may still let in some water and be stiff when installing.
• Reinstalling boat canvas or boat cover: Never replace your boat cover at a temperature below 15 degrees Celsius. The windows in the boat cover will shrink due to lower temperatures, and there is a chance that you will tear the cover. So preferably in the sun, then the material warms up.
• Before you replace the boat cover on the sloop, you must clean the sloop cover very thoroughly. If you do not do this, there is a very high chance that the cleaned cover or a newly installed boat cover will mold again quickly. The presence of mycelium (network of fungus roots) or the spores of a fungus are not visible to the naked eye.
• You close the boat cover by starting by securing the windshield and then working towards the back. Use the quick-release fasteners to tighten and thus position the press studs correctly. Sometimes it is necessary to have 2 people to close the press studs. If you find the cover difficult to close (alone), you can have a closing system such as Easy Cabrio installed, which makes closing easier.
• You clean the boat cover with a soft brush, to protect the seams, and warm water. Preferably let it soak for 24 hours first. Certainly do not use green soap or vinegar or a high-pressure cleaner. A special cleaning product can also be used, but the waterproof impregnation may disappear.
• You can take the cover to a specialized laundry. During a wash, a tent undergoes various treatments. First, the dirt is sprayed off, and then the canvas goes into a kind of warm immersion bath for some time. Afterward, the tent is hung to dry, and it is impregnated again. With impregnation, you reduce the chance that fungi and algae will attach themselves. This also makes the fabric extra water and dirt-repellent. That also applies to the cushion set. Do not impregnate the windows and let the cover dry well. Finally, wet the cover and see which parts are not yet properly impregnated.
• If the cover has been to the laundry, it can be difficult to replace it. Because the foil can warm up slightly in a spring sun, it can stretch a bit, which makes it easier. If this does not work, dampen the cover with water. The fabric becomes more flexible when it is wet. If all the above does not help, the sailmaker can be asked to re-attach the press studs.
• The lifespan of a boat cover is about ten years. After 5 years, have the stitching checked by a sailmaker and then have it restitched if necessary. This saves you costs in the long term.
• If the sloop is equipped with HPL teak, protect the teak every quarter with a protective film. Especially on the parts attached outside on the deck. For example, with Sjippie Dek UV-Wax, or HG laminate protector. Protects against wear, scratches, and other damage, masks dull spots and already existing wear spots, and provides shine. First clean with water and a mild detergent. Do not use abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, anti-limescale agents, or acidic cleaning agents. If the HPL teak is already weathered, use Riwax PVC Teak Coating.
  
• Stainless steel is not completely stainless. Keep stainless steel fittings in the best condition: Clean all stainless steel fittings regularly. Never use abrasive materials like steel wool, acids, or bleach on stainless steel. Remove rust spots as soon as possible using chrome or brass polish. Pitting may occur and remain on the surface of the stainless steel. Use high-quality car wax to protect the stainless steel. Regularly inspect your boat for the sturdiness and appearance of bolts, screws, and clamps.

Winter Storage

The warranty and boat insurance only provide coverage if sufficient care has been taken regarding winter storage. In other words, by following the recommendations in this manual.

• Fuel engine:
  • Disconnect the fuel tank. Let the engine run until it stops while the boat is still in the water (squeeze the primer bulb on the fuel line a few times while doing this). Use the remaining fuel for your car. This can also be done during the annual maintenance service.
  • Have a fuel outboard motor serviced annually by an authorized specialist. The engine needs to be winterized. The best time of year for winter storage is now; waiting times are long in the spring. The engine is also prepared for winter to prevent damage and guarantee a smooth start in the spring. Even with few operating hours, the engine still endures a lot, such as oxidation and corroding anodes, and the tailpiece oil needs replacing. By changing the oil, you can be sure there is no water inside, which could cause damage.
• Electric motor, you can also do the annual maintenance yourself:
  • Turn off the system using the on/off button. Remove the magnetic key and turn the battery main switch to the off position to work safely.
  • Clean the control handle, the shaft, and the motor for a proper inspection. Use a soft, damp cloth and, if necessary, a pH-neutral cleaner.
  • Check that the screws and bolts connecting the motor, electronics box, and control handle to the boat are still securely fastened.
  • For a remote control: check that it is free of damage and properly mounted. Clean if necessary with a slightly damp soft cloth. After cleaning, spray WD40 between the housing and the handle and move it back and forth a few times.
  • If the motor housing has paint damage, have it professionally touched up to prevent water damage due to corrosion.
  • Anode: if the anode is dirty, clean it and sand it lightly so the aluminum or zinc surface is clearly visible. Replace the anode if more than 50% degraded.
  • Disassemble the propeller and remove any water plants or fishing line from the shaft. If fishing line is found, thoroughly inspect to ensure it has not been between the shaft and the seal. If in doubt about damage to the seals or shaft, contact a mechanic. Check the propeller for damage such as cracks, broken pieces, or deformations. If it shows damage that causes the propeller to be unbalanced, it must be replaced.
  • Disconnect all data cables and connectors, check that the connections are clean and free of damage. Clean the electronic contacts with compressed air, spray the connections with contact spray, and reconnect everything.
    Check all power cables and connections for damage and wear. If they are damaged (cracks in the cable sheath, deep kinks in the cable, plugs that no longer make good contact, or loose connections), they must be replaced. (see “Checklist for inspection, cleaning, maintenance, and storage of batteries”).
  • Switch on the system. Check that the values on the display and in the setup menu are set correctly and that the throttle functions properly in forward-neutral-reverse. If the motor is out of the water, only run it briefly and at low power. Let the motor run and check if the shaft is straight. Grease the shaft with propeller shaft grease and mount the propeller.
• All battery types:
  • Switch off the motor and any main switch to work safely and disconnect the battery from the motor and battery charger by detaching the power cables and data cables.
  • Inspect all power connections for damage (cables, connectors, and terminal clamps). Keep the connection terminals and connectors free of dust and corrosion. Corrosion (rust) on the connection terminals can affect battery performance and pose a safety risk. Carefully loosen the battery clamps, clean any corrosion with a wire brush or battery terminal brush. Apply battery grease (acid-free petroleum jelly) to the battery terminals to prevent corrosion and thus voltage loss and transition resistance.
  • Dust and moisture creep into all electrical equipment. Moisture enters cables, wires, and contacts. This turns green, which is “corrosion.” The cable insulation then breaks down. Electricity struggles to pass through the rust, known as “transition resistance.” As a result of the combination of dust and moisture, a small current leaks from the cable. We call this leakage current. It becomes warm/hot and can ignite. This can lead to a fire. Check for this and use the main battery switch to prevent leakage current.
  • Check all data connections for damage (if present) and clean them with compressed air. Spray all data connections with contact spray; this cleans oil, dirt, dust, flux residue, and condensation.
  • Store the battery in a dry and clean room with adequate ventilation.
  • The battery can be used connected to the motor at temperatures between -20 and 60 degrees Celsius. 60 degrees can sometimes be reached in the battery compartment on a very hot day, so ensure extra ventilation.
  • Switch off the 12V onboard system. The area where the battery is located must be clean, dry, and well-ventilated. Switch off all equipment such as refrigerators and pumps and only charge the batteries when someone is on board. Battery chargers and inverters can sometimes burn out.
• Lithium such as LFP / LiFePo4 batteries:
  • Ensure the battery is not exposed to extreme temperatures. High temperatures in particular can shorten the battery's lifespan. Installing the battery in a well-ventilated place will keep it cooler and make it last longer. In a boat, the temperature can reach up to 65 degrees at a 30-degree ambient temperature. The ideal storage temperature for the battery is 15 to 25 degrees Celsius with a maximum humidity of 75 percent. Maximum 6 months between -10°C and 15°C and 25°C to 35°C and maximum 1 month 35°C - 45°C. Short-term 45°C to 60°C. 55–60°C a few hours per day, occasionally: effect is slightly accelerated aging, >60°C Maximum 1–2 hours, very rarely risk of damage or BMS shutdown, >70°C Not allowed, risk of irreparable damage or outgassing. Absolutely avoid temperatures above 60°C.
    Take into account a difference of 35°C between outside and inside temperature (and 25°C with mechanical ventilation). So, open the storage locker where the battery is located in the summer, check the temperature, and use additional ventilation.
    
  • You can sail between minus 10 and 45 degrees Celsius. At temperatures below minus 20 degrees and/or between 50 and 60 degrees, the lifespan is limited.
  • The optimal state of charge (especially for long (winter) storage) is 45 to 50% (or otherwise at least 30% and at most 70%). So, if possible, only charge the evening before sailing.
    Always charge a lithium battery at an ambient temperature of at least 5 degrees. In any case, do not sail with frost and preferably not above 45 degrees, and at most 50 degrees.
    Use a charger with an ampere capacity of at least 5% (charging time maximum 20 hours) to a maximum of 50% of the battery capacity (charging time maximum 2 hours). The lower, the better it is for the battery.
  • Charge the battery when the motor main switch is turned off. Especially if the brands of battery and motors differ. The final charge voltage can be too high and damage the motor.
  • The following table shows the state of charge (SOC) of a 12, 24, or 48 Volt LFP LiFePO4 lithium battery based on resting voltage (so no motor load).

    State of Charge Table – LFP/LiFePO₄ Battery (resting voltage)

    SOC (%)	12 V	24 V	48 V
    Overcharged	16.0	32.0	64.0
    Charge voltage	14.2-14.6	28.4-29.2	56.8-58,4
    100	13.6	27.2	54.4
    90	13.4	26.8	53.6
    80	13.3	26.6	53.1
    70	13.2	26.4	52.8
    60	13.1	26.1	52.3
    50	13.0	26.1	52.2
    40	13.0	26.0	52.0
    30	12.9	25.8	51.5
    20	12.8	25.6	51.2
    10	12.0	24.0	48.0
    0, very deep discharge	10.0	20.0	40.0

    
    
  • Lithium batteries can be irreparably damaged by very deep discharge or overcharging. Damage due to deep discharge can occur if small loads slowly discharge the battery when the system is not in use. Some examples of these loads are alarm systems, standby power of DC loads, and leakage current from battery chargers or charge controllers. Always disconnect the battery(ies). With a main power switch, you only need to switch it off. With an Anderson plug, you can easily disconnect it. With battery cables, disconnect the main plus and minus connections (first the minus connection, then the plus connection).
  • The battery will deteriorate faster when you draw a lot of energy from it in a short time. For example, by sailing more slowly, you can extend the battery's lifespan.
  • Try to minimize vibrations and shocks to the battery.
  • For batteries connected in parallel: check the voltage of all individual batteries annually with a multimeter. If the voltage difference between the batteries is greater than 0.1 Volt, there is an imbalance. Then contact a technical specialist.
    
  • For batteries connected in parallel or in series: use only exactly the same brand and type.
• Semi-traction VRLA AGM lead-acid batteries (starter battery and possibly electric battery for electric motor):
  • It is important never to discharge the batteries more than 80% (starter battery no more than 20%). It is also important to recharge the AGM batteries fully immediately after sailing. In case of excessive discharge, the warranty is void, as is charging with a charger with too low or high capacity.
  • Below are the battery voltages for 12 Volt, 24 Volt, and 48 Volt batteries (AGM and lead-acid (starter battery)) indicating how much capacity is still available. Based on the resting voltage (so no motor load).

• 100%: 12.7 / 25.4 / 50.8 Volt or higher
• 90% 12.6 / 25.2 / 50.4 Volt
• 80% 12.5 / 25.0 / 50.0 Volt
• 70% 12.3 / 24.6 / 49.2 Volt
• 60% 12.2 / 24.4 / 48.8 Volt: recharge
• 50% 12.1 / 24.1 / 48.2 Volt
• 40% 11.9 / 23.8 / 47.6 Volt: chance of shorter lifespan
• 30% 11.8 / 23.6 / 47.1 Volt: chance of shorter lifespan
• 20% 11.5 / 23.0 / 46.1 Volt: high risk of damage
• 10% 11.3 / 22.6 / 45.2 Volt: high risk of damage
• 0% 10.9 / 21.8 / 43.6 Volt: high risk of damage

• • If the voltage is lower than 12.4 Volts a few hours after disconnecting the charger (24 Volts: 24.8 Volts, 48 Volts: 49.6 Volts), it is best to replace the battery.
  • For multiple electric batteries for the electric motor: check the condition and correct voltage of all batteries when the boat is in the water. Use a multimeter for this. Measure the battery(ies) under loaded and unloaded conditions.
    -Loaded: Run the motor and measure the voltage of all individual batteries with the multimeter by placing the pins on the + and – terminal of the battery. After measuring, compare the results of the individual batteries. The mutual difference between the voltage of the batteries must not exceed 0.1 Volt.
    -Unloaded: After charging, measure the batteries again individually and compare the results again. In this situation as well, the difference in voltage between the batteries must not exceed 0.1 Volt. NOTE! If the voltage difference between the batteries is greater than 0.1 Volt, there is an imbalance. It is important to eliminate this difference before the storage period. This creates voltage differences that can eventually lead to damage to the batteries, motor, or other components.
  • Disconnect the battery(ies). With an Anderson plug, you can easily disconnect it. With battery cables, disconnect the main plus and minus connections (first the minus connection, then the plus connection). With a main power switch, you only need to switch it off. With multiple batteries, you do not need to disconnect the batteries from each other.
  • Charge the battery(ies) to 100%. The batteries have only 1.5% self-discharge per month at a temperature of 10°C. This discharge rate doubles with every 10°C temperature increase, so 3% self-discharge per month at a temperature of 20°C. Check the battery voltage every 10 weeks during the storage period and recharge the batteries to 100%. This applies to an ambient temperature above 0 degrees. A trickle charger is not necessary but is recommended. NOTE! At an ambient temperature around and below freezing, the battery voltage must be checked very regularly and the (starter) batteries must be charged to 100% to prevent damage due to deep discharge (the minimum voltage is 12.4 Volts for a 12 Volt battery (that gives you 80% capacity). At 24 Volts, the minimum voltage is 24.8 Volts, and at 48 Volts, the minimum voltage is 49.6 Volts. In that case, a trickle charger with a temperature sensor is necessary. Even better is to store them frost-free in winter on a trickle charger. This can be done indoors or by placing a frost guard.
  • The electrochemical activity in a battery increases or decreases as the ambient temperature changes. The charging voltage must be lowered when the temperature rises to prevent overcharging. The opposite applies at very low temperatures; the charging voltage must then be increased to prevent undercharging. Temperature compensation is required when the battery temperature is expected to be lower than 10°C or higher than 30°C for an extended period: common temperatures for boat applications. The recommended temperature compensation is -20 mV/°C for float use (stand-by) and -30 mV/°C (calculated from 25°C) for cycle use for each individual 12V battery. So at 0°C: 25*+20mV= +0.5Volt. Thus, despite the low self-discharge at 0°C, it is important to keep the charging voltage at the right level. At 100%, the charging voltage drops to 12.2 Volts: the level of 40% discharge, which is not good for the battery.
    The maximum charging voltage of the batteries is 14.6 Volts to 14.8 Volts for cycle use at 12 Volts (13.6 Volts to 13.8 Volts for float use).
  • Maintain the batteries with a trickle charging voltage of approximately 13.2 Volts and a periodic refresh charge (source: Victron, Electricity on Board). Minimum charging temperature: 0°C and maximum charging temperature: 50°C.
    
    
• Boat maintenance
• Store the engine in a frost-free area in a vertical position so that no water remains in the lower unit.
• Spray off the hull with high pressure. It is advisable to clean the hull immediately after the sloop is taken out of the water. If the growth is still damp, it is easier to remove than when it has dried out. A special environmentally friendly cleaning agent like Radboud Bioclean ensures higher effectiveness.
• Check the hull for damage and touch up the gelcoat to prevent osmosis.
• After sailing in salt water, rinse the entire boat immediately with fresh water. If the boat is mainly used in salt water, you must wax the hull once a month with a wax layer and apply a corrosion inhibitor to all metal parts.
• Impregnate the convertible top or have it impregnated at a specialized laundry.
• Take cushions off the boat, or set them upright to prevent mold.
• Dry the bilge area and leave it open for extra ventilation. This helps prevent osmosis. If possible, open 2 ventilation points in the boat to ensure airflow and prevent moisture from lingering. Also place a moisture absorber, do not use a heater.
• Prevent condensation: ensure the electrical installation compartment is sufficiently ventilated.
• Naturally, for the preservation of your sloop, it is best to store it in a shed or otherwise under a cover. It is important to remove all water from the sloop, otherwise frost damage can occur. In addition, all water residues as well as condensation must be removed from the front and from under the floor.
• The costs for indoor winter storage for a sloop with a length of up to 6 meters are approximately € 500 to € 600.
• Cover the sloop outdoors with a winter tent / winter cover; the fabric is set up with the help of supports so that snow and ice can fall off. The cover must not be completely sealed, so that air can circulate under the fabric. With any winter storage, it is important to ensure that no point loading occurs. You prevent this by placing the sloop on multiple large contact surfaces. Do remember that snow that remains on your sloop can easily weigh a few hundred kilos! No sloop is built to bear such a large load.

Theft

• Prevent theft by mounting an SCM-approved outboard motor lock and additionally a VbV/SCM-approved cable or chain lock (with a thickness of at least 1 centimeter) with which the sloop is secured to the quay. These are available with the sloop.
• With a track and trace system, you receive the location of the sloop on your phone periodically. The system is available with the sloop.
• At the land registry (Kadaster), you can register that you are the owner of the sloop with a ship registration. The sloop then receives a brand with a unique identification number. This is recorded in the register of the Kadaster. Upon registration, you can also make the sloop less attractive for theft with microdots. With microdots, your sloop is extra secured against theft. A brand can be removed, but it is virtually impossible to remove all microdots.
• If the sloop is on the sloop trailer make sure to have an SCM-approved coupling lock (even when it is coupled to a car) to prevent theft of the trailer and sloop (and additionally a wheel clamp when parking on public roads). These measures are also required by insurers.

Recycling

Polyester has a long lifespan. Take the boat to a recycling company at the end of its life. It is possible to process the polyester, for example, for sheet piling or railway sleepers.

Insurance

Consider boat insurance (possibly with boat trailer insurance) that covers liability damage and any damage to or loss of your own sloop. Univé, FBTO, and Nationale Nederlanden, among others, offer these. Also, check to what extent you want to insure the inventory, rental, frost damage, transport over water/land, or your own fixed mooring place through the boat insurance.

• For sloops with an engine power of more than 4 hp or 3kW, your private liability insurance will not cover the damage.
• With the Occupant Accident coverage, you are insured if you suffer injury due to an accident with your sloop that leads to your death or permanent disability.
• With limited hull coverage, you are insured for damage to or loss of your sloop if it is caused by: fire, explosion, direct lightning strike, storm, theft and burglary; transport by road or water.
• Full hull coverage provides cover for loss of and damage to your sloop if that loss or damage is caused or arises from: collision, water ingress/sinking, overvoltage/induction, vandalism; embezzlement and joyriding, frost, blistering in the polyester due to osmosis for up to 10 years (Nationale Nederlanden, FBTO up to 5 years), inherent defect of the engine and sloop and the inherent defect itself, any other external disaster. In the case of an inherent defect (Inherent defect = a bad property that materials should not have), FBTO also insures everything mounted on the boat! Additionally, it covers costs of emergency repair of the boat, costs of salvage and storage, costs to prevent or limit immediately imminent damage, and costs of experts. In the event of repair, FBTO pays the repair costs and the material costs. Frost damage is also insured.
• For a sloop of 15,000 euros, a premium calculation with FBTO results in a 7 euro monthly premium for Liability & Assistance, Collision & Inherent defect after 10 claim-free years.
  
  

Transport

• Boat trailer: read the boat trailer manual for safely transporting and taking your sloop out of the water and launching it.
• Hoisting: If the boat needs to be taken out of the water without a trailer, do not attach hoisting cables to connectors, ski eyes, or the railing. Use special hoisting straps that go under the boat.
  Keep the bow slightly higher than the stern to prevent engine damage.