Boat trailer manual


This manual is intended to provide you with an explanation of your boat trailer and to help you use your boat trailer safely and with pleasure. Read this manual carefully and thoroughly before using the trailer. This manual has been created to help you choose the right trailer. In addition, you will become acquainted with coupling the trailer and we will explain how to launch a boat or retrieve it from the water. Furthermore, information is provided on uncoupling the trailer as well as operation and maintenance instructions. If – despite reading this manual carefully – something is still unclear, please get in touch.

 

How do I choose the right trailer?

  • The most important thing is that the weight of the boat (including the motor and accessories such as a convertible top) is lower than the maximum payload of the trailer. You can often find the weight of your boat and motor by Googling. Generally, you can take the weight of your boat and add 10 percent for the motor and accessories. Then check if the length of the boat is less than the maximum boat length of the trailer. This is of less importance than the weight.
  • The boat may protrude from the rear of the boat trailer by a maximum of 5 meters, measured from the rearmost axle. For a multi-axle boat trailer (tandem axle), the boat may protrude by a maximum of 4 meters, measured from the rearmost axle. The protruding length may not exceed half the length of the boat trailer. Therefore, with a 6-meter boat trailer, the boat may not protrude more than 3 meters behind the rear end.
    • If the boat protrudes more than 1 meter behind the light bar, it must be equipped with a "long-load marker board." A marker board is a square board of at least 42 by 42 centimeters with parallel diagonal red and white stripes. The stripes must be between 7 and 10 centimeters wide. The red stripes must be fluorescent or retro-reflective. After sunset, a red light must be attached to the rear of the protruding boat. On the boat protruding at the front, white light-emitting lighting must be installed, facing forward. The distance between the furthest point of the boat and the light must be a maximum of 10 centimeters. The white and red lights must be clearly visible to oncoming and following traffic, respectively.
  • At the RDW (Netherlands Vehicle Authority), you can look up the length, width, and height of braked boat trailers with a gross payload of more than 750 kilograms. You can also look up the payload, which is the maximum permitted mass - unladen weight of the boat trailer. The maximum permitted mass and axle loads according to the RDW / registration certificate may not be exceeded.
  • The maximum length is 12 meters; in combination with a car, the maximum length is 18 meters.
  • The maximum height is 4 meters.
  • The maximum width of the boat trailer is 2.55 meters. The trailer including the boat may be a total maximum of 3 meters wide. The boat may therefore protrude up to 22 centimeters on the sides. The boat must be equipped with marker boards if it protrudes more than 10 centimeters on the sides. The 'width' marker boards consist of square boards of 42 by 42 centimeters. Elongated boards of 28 by 56 centimeters or 14 by 80 centimeters are also permitted. The boards must feature alternating diagonal red and white stripes with a width between 7 and 10 centimeters, with the red stripes being fluorescent or retro-reflective. Four marker boards must be attached to the front and rear of the boat, perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the boat trailer (so not at an angle). The boards must be placed as wide as the boat (so not wider or narrower). The boards must be placed at a minimum height of 25 centimeters and a maximum of 1.9 meters (or a maximum of 2.3 meters if necessary). After sunset, you must display a white light at the front and a red one at the rear. The lights must indicate the maximum width of the boat. You may determine the height yourself.


A trailer must always be adjusted to the boat
to be able to load and transport the boat without damage.

  • It is important that the weight of the boat (often at the rear for an outboard motor) is as much as possible above the load-bearing part of the boat trailer (so not above the light bar with the license plate). With a self-adjusting trailer, this is often not necessary, so it is ideal if you have no experience or transport different boats.
  • Finally, check whether your vehicle has sufficient towing capacity for the trailer and the boat. You can request this from the RDW. You will then receive a specification for a Maximum braked mass (for a boat trailer with brakes) and a Maximum unbraked mass (for a boat trailer without brakes).
  • Boat trailers are suitable for driving license B, provided the combined weight of the car, trailer, and boat is less than 3,500 kilograms.
  • If a boat has a deep keel at the bottom, such as a sailboat, extra supports are often needed. If you have a RIB or inflatable boat, it is important to mount trumpet rollers or beams and a different bow support.

 

Adjustment under your boat
When you have chosen to have the adjustment of your boat trailer handled by Marinaut, it is important that you test for yourself as soon as possible that everything functions to your satisfaction. Naturally, Marinaut has extensively tested the trailer and the launching of your boat; however, every waterfront is different and factors such as changing water levels, a full or empty fuel tank, as well as the height of the tow bar, can all influence the proper operation of a boat trailer. If you have chosen to handle the adjustment yourself, we cannot guarantee the proper functioning of the loading system.

 

Coupling / uncoupling the boat trailer

Step 1: Check whether the tow ball coupling is open (X-position).

Step 2: Check that the coupling height of the trailer is approx. 5 cm above that of the towing vehicle. If necessary, this height can be corrected using the jockey wheel.

Step 3: Drive the towing vehicle in reverse towards the positioned and braked trailer until the ball coupling is almost exactly above the ball on the vehicle. For safety reasons, ensure that no persons are located between the trailer and the towing vehicle.

Step 4: Remove any wheel chocks from the trailer.

Step 5: Release the handbrake of the trailer.

Step 6: For overrun devices with a "KH" or "GF" handbrake lever, this only needs to be pulled forward into the initial position. No further locks need to be unlocked and no buttons need to be pressed. For overrun devices with a retractable handbrake lever, this must first be extended to its maximum length. Then the handbrake can be easily released. Finally, the handbrake lever must be pushed back to the shortest position. For overrun devices with a "HF" tooth segment lever, the button on the handbrake lever must be pressed before the lever can be released. The effort required to press the button can be reduced if the handbrake lever is pulled slightly at the same time.

Step 7: Pull the trailer with the ball coupling exactly over the ball.

Step 8: Lower the drawbar slowly until the ball coupling is clearly and audibly placed properly on the ball; this can be heard by a click. Check based on the marker on the tow ball coupling whether the coupling is closed correctly. The indicator jumps to the green field of the marker, marked with a "+", after the ball coupling has been placed correctly.

Step 9: Now the jockey wheel can be cranked up and fixed in the uppermost position.

Step 10: Wrap the breakaway cable once around the ball neck and then hook the carabiner onto the cable.

Step 11: Plug the trailer's lighting plug into the towing vehicle's socket and check that all lights are working.

For uncoupling, perform the same steps in reverse order.

 

Coupling the boat trailer, what you need to know:

  • After coupling, it must be checked in any case using the indicator that the ball coupling is correctly placed on the ball: If the indicator is in the green "+" field, the ball coupling is correctly closed and locked, and the ball on the car still has sufficient wear reserve.
  • Only in this case has a safe connection been made between your vehicle and the trailer, and they are permitted to participate in traffic. Do not forget to release the handbrake and attach the breakaway cable to the ball neck.
  • The breakaway cable is intended to cause an emergency brake of the trailer should the connection to the towing vehicle be interrupted for any reason.
  • When the indicator is in the red "-" field, the coupling is closed incorrectly and the trailer may under no circumstances be driven.
    There can be three causes for this:
    1. The ball on the towing vehicle is already heavily worn and does not provide enough grip for the ball coupling. A new ball has a diameter of 50.0 mm. If this diameter becomes smaller due to wear, even if only partially, below 49 mm, the ball on the towing vehicle must be replaced in any case and may no longer be used.
    2. The ball coupling itself is very worn and no longer provides enough grip on the ball. In this case, the ball coupling must be replaced by a qualified garage.
    3. The locking mechanism of the ball coupling was activated, but there is no ball in the coupling. The ball coupling is lying loosely on the ball and does not have a firm connection. The coupling will jump off the ball as soon as you start driving. Open the ball coupling as described under point 2.1 and try again to let the ball coupling lock correctly onto the ball.
  • When the indicator is in the red "X" field, the ball coupling is not closed. The coupling is lying loosely on the ball and would jump off when starting to drive. The trailer may under no circumstances be driven in this situation!
    The coupling mechanism may be stiff due to neglected lubrication.
  • The swivel range of the ball coupling around the vehicle axis is max. ±25°. In the horizontal direction, swivel angles within a range of ±20° are possible.
    Note! If the swivel ranges are exceeded, the components will be overloaded, and the function of the ball coupling is then no longer guaranteed.
  • The permissible nose weight of the respective tow ball coupling is indicated on the handle. You must not drive with negative nose weight, as this negatively influences the driving stability of the trailer. A negative nose weight can very easily be avoided by changing the loading of the trailer.
  • To ensure optimal driving and braking behavior of the trailer, it is essential that the coupling heights of the towing vehicle and trailer correspond. According to DIN 74058, the position of the coupling point on the trailer must be 430 ±35 mm above the point where the wheel touches the ground. To check the coupling height, the trailer and towing vehicle must be exactly horizontal and loaded to the full permissible weight. Furthermore, the wheel pressure must meet the manufacturer's requirements.
  • The nose weight is the vertical force of the boat trailer on the tow bar coupling. The type plate on the tow bar indicates the maximum permitted weight on the ball (usually 50 to 150 kilograms). If the maximum load under the trailer coupling differs from the maximum nose weight, use the lowest value.
  • The permitted nose weight of a loaded boat trailer must be at least 5% of the towed weight. So, for a weight of 1,000 kilograms (boat with trailer), at least 50 kilograms of nose weight. The desired nose weight is usually between 50 and 80 kilograms. To determine this quickly, you can assume 75 kilograms. Check the nose weight with the boat on the trailer. A good guideline is a nose weight of 5% to 7%. The load under the coupling with a maximum permitted mass of more than 750 kilograms must be at least 1% of the maximum permitted mass of the vehicle. So, with a maximum of 1300 kilograms, the load must be more than 13 kilograms.
  • With a too low nose weight, the boat trailer does not press sufficiently on the tow bar. There is then insufficient stability of the combination. The boat trailer can start to sway due to crosswinds and overtaking trucks, which is very dangerous. If the combination starts to sway, brake as hard as possible.
  • With a too high nose weight, the car can compress its suspension too far (and then has too little grip on the front wheels). If you then have to brake hard, it may happen that the car and boat trailer jackknife. The load under the coupling of a boat trailer with a maximum permitted mass of up to 750 kilograms may only be directed downwards and may not exceed 50 kilograms.
  • You can measure the nose weight with a nose weight gauge or an ordinary bathroom scale. It is important that the trailer is horizontal (level). When using a bathroom scale, place a board on the scale to distribute the force over a larger surface area. Then place a piece of wood upright between the coupling and the board and let the trailer rest on it.
  • If the center of gravity of the boat is above the center of the axle assembly (tandem axle) or the center of the axle (single axle), then the coupling pressure is in most cases correct.
    If the nose weight is not optimal, you can increase or decrease it by moving the boat forward or backward. You can set this by adjusting the winch stand.
  • Attach the breakaway cable. The breakaway cable ensures that an unbraked boat trailer remains attached if it should unexpectedly come loose from the car. In the case of a braked boat trailer, the cable will cause the trailer to brake and come to a stop itself (the breakaway cable will snap in the process). 
  • After connecting the lighting plug, check that the boat trailer's lights are working. If your car has a 7-pin socket, you can use an adapter to connect to the trailer's 13-pin plug. This refers to a 7-pin to 13-pin adapter rather than 13 to 7-pin. 
  • Raise the jockey wheel. With smaller jockey wheels, ensure it clicks into the notch so that it is securely locked, and clamp the jockey wheel tightly against the trailer.
  • Check the tires annually for cracks due to aging or damage from hitting curbs. Check the correct tire pressure for safety, fuel economy, and to limit tire wear. The maximum air pressure is indicated in small characters on the side of the tire in KPA or PSI and applies to a cold tire (after a few hours of standing and out of the sun). Many tires can handle 3 bar. 
    Also check the tread (minimum 1.6 mm). The tires must not be older than 6 years, as tires also age while stationary. Also protect them from UV radiation from sunlight. 
  • The maximum authorized towing weight of the car is calculated based on the weight of the trailer with the boat (and motor). So take the load into account.
  • For an unbraked boat trailer, clip the license plate onto the light board (lighting panel at the rear of the trailer). 
  • The boat must never protrude beyond the front of the trailer's coupling. When turning, it will collide with the car.

 

Inspection of new boat trailers

After the first trip, no later than 50 kilometers, the wheel nuts must be checked.
Check before every trip:
- condition of the tires/sufficient air pressure?
- function of the lighting Always check before driving that all lighting around your boat trailer is functioning correctly and is clearly visible. Ensure that no cargo or parts of the cargo limit visibility. Make sure your license plate and the associated lighting are also clearly visible.- jockey wheel raised and secured? (the jockey wheel must always be parallel to the direction of travel.)
- ball coupling safely locked? (the ball coupling must have closed securely around the ball. You can read this from the sticker or the notched marking on the towing ball coupling (see 2)). The trailer may only be driven if the pointer points to the green field with the "+" marking!
- breakaway cable hooked up?
- handbrake released?
- for height-adjustable drawbars: are the hinges firmly seated?
- are the bolts secured?

 

Principles for safe trailer use

  • External changes to the center of gravity due to incorrect loading must be avoided at all costs.
  • Heavy objects should be stored as low as possible in the area of the axles.
  • No overloading due to irresponsible or rough driving or improper handling. Impacts and shocks should be avoided.
  • On motorways and highways, you may drive a maximum of 90 kilometers per hour, but only if the maximum authorized mass of your boat trailer is less than 3500 kilograms. The driving speed must be adjusted to the road surface and the load or the load of the trailer. This applies in particular to curves. 
  • Note the chassis number for tracing in case of theft. When the boat is on the boat trailer, ensure you use a CCV / SCM approved coupling lock (even when hitched to a car) to prevent theft of the trailer and boat (and for long-term parking on public roads, additionally use a wheel clamp - incidentally, in most municipalities, you are only allowed to park a boat trailer on the public road for a maximum of 3 days). These measures are often required by insurers as well. Sometimes it is also required that the boat is secured to the boat trailer with an approved lock.

The boat trailer is covered under the WA (third-party liability) coverage of your car insurance should you cause damage. This only applies when the boat trailer is hitched to the car at that moment. Take out a trailer insurance policy if you might cause damage when the boat is unhitched, or in case of external damage (e.g., fire damage) or theft. Full comprehensive (all-risk) coverage for a boat trailer worth 2,000 euros costs approximately 72 euros annually. Check whether the boat trailer falls under your contents insurance, as this occurs when there is no license plate requirement. 

 

  • A boat trailer must be equipped with at least:


    • 2 white retro-reflectors at the front
    • Amber yellow retro-reflectors on each side
    • 1 red rear fog light
    • 1 (white or yellow) reversing light if the maximum authorized mass is more than 750 kilograms
    • Approved and clearly visible rear license plate
    • 2 red brake lights
    • Pneumatic tires with at least 1.6 mm tread
    • License plate lighting
    • 2 red triangular reflectors at the rear
    • 2 red taillights
    • 2 red or amber turn signals at the rear
    • 2 white front position lights if the trailer is wider than 1.6 meters
    • extra marker lights are mandatory if a boat trailer is longer than 6 meters and/or wider than 2.1 meters,
  • Boat trailers with a maximum authorized mass of up to 1,500 kilograms must have at least a secondary coupling. 
    Boat trailers with a maximum authorized mass of more than 1,500 kilograms must have a breakaway braking system, or if it exceeds 50 percent of the car's curb weight. For example, a boat trailer with a maximum mass of 1400 kilograms is more than 50 percent heavier than a 650-kilogram car.

Launching the boat:

  • Important: Close any opened drain plug (usually located at the bottom of the transom (rear)). 
  • Remember to remove the trailer's light bar before loading and unloading. Hang the plug up so that it cannot get submerged in water.
  • Prepare any tilting mechanism by disconnecting it.
  • Ensure the outboard motor is tilted to prevent the propeller from hitting the ground.
  • Reverse the car with the trailer to the ramp with the windows open for communication. At the ramp, someone should check that the boat enters the water correctly and does not hit any rocks or other obstacles in or out of the water. 
  • The trailer does not need to go too deep into the water (up to the axle of the wheels, it is best if the axle remains dry).Lower the boat with the winch. Be careful that the ratchet does not injure you if released. If the boat won't come off, unwind a piece of the winch strap with the ratchet. Lock the ratchet and push the boat. If this doesn't work, you can drive the trailer deeper into the water. If you try again then, the boat may already be floating slightly and will come off. 
  • Someone may be in the boat (boarding at the front) to maintain control and to keep the boat on course with two lines and maneuver it alongside the quay.


The first time you launch your boat is always exciting. It is therefore important to start this adventure well-prepared. After all, a boat weighs quite a lot, almost always more than a person can carry. It is therefore important to let the boat trailer and its equipment do their work properly.

Preparing your boat for launching

  • Inspect the ramp for suitability and only use it if you are convinced it is appropriate for your car, trailer, and boat.*
  • Release all tie-down straps and lashing belts and stow them safely if necessary.
  • Check that the winch is in the locked position and that any safety chain is attached.
  • Before launching your boat
  • Drive the trailer slowly down a sloping boat ramp and pay close attention to a few things:
  • Is the ramp underwater long and strong enough to support the trailer's wheels?
  • Is the ramp not too steep? This is to prevent potential damage that could occur to the underside of the trailer. Do not drive the trailer too far down the ramp! If the first keel rollers (the rollers supporting the keel in the middle of the trailer) get wet, it is often enough to safely and controlledly get your boat in and out of the water. We strongly advise against launching or loading the trailer by driving the boat on or off. The chance that you will cause damage to your boat or the trailer by doing so is very high.
  • Put your vehicle in park and engage the handbrake. It is even wiser to block your vehicle additionally with a stone or wooden block behind the wheels. Of course, you can also use the trailer's handbrake for extra braking power, if available.
  • Don't forget to release it when your trailer needs to be driven back up again.
  • Use the manual winch or the electric winch to slowly roll your boat into the water. If conditions require and allow it, you can help your boat by guiding it from a walkway. PLEASE NOTE! Walkways or gangways can be slippery despite their anti-slip structure and/or additional anti-slip stickers!!
  • When your boat is safely in the water, and you have disconnected the boat, you can drive the trailer back up.
  • If you sail in salt or brackish water, it is wise to rinse the trailer with fresh water immediately to prevent accelerated corrosion.

 

Retrieving the boat from the water:

 

  • Retrieving your boat from the water
  • Drive the trailer slowly down a sloping boat ramp and pay close attention to a few things:
  • Is the ramp underwater long and strong enough to support the trailer's wheels?
  • Is the ramp not too steep? This is to prevent potential damage that could occur to the underside of the trailer. Do not drive the trailer too far down the ramp! If the first keel rollers (middle rollers) get wet, it is often enough to safely and controlledly get your boat in and out of the water. We strongly advise against loading or unloading the trailer by driving the boat on or off. The chance that you will cause damage to your boat or the trailer is very high.
  • Put your vehicle in park and engage the handbrake. It is even wiser to block your vehicle additionally with a stone or wooden block behind the wheels. Of course, you can also use the trailer's handbrake (if available) for extra braking power. Don't forget to release it when your trailer needs to be driven back up again. Walk with the winch strap/cable in hand over the walkway to the bow of your boat and attach the hook to the towing eye. Use the manual winch or the electric winch to slowly pull your boat out of the water. If conditions require and allow it, you can help your boat by guiding it from the walkway. (PLEASE NOTE! The walkway can be slippery despite its anti-slip structure and/or additional anti-slip stickers). When your boat is safely and securely on your boat trailer, you can drive the trailer back up. If you sail in salt or brackish water, it is wise to rinse the trailer and your boat with fresh water immediately to prevent accelerated corrosion on the trailer and damage to your boat.

 

 

  • Remove the light bar and ensure the plug does not get submerged in water.
  • Ensure two lines are ready on board. If necessary, have someone in the boat to maintain control.
  • Attach the winch strap to the trailer eye. 
  • Maneuver the boat straight behind the trailer using the lines. Ensure the bow is straight in front of the keel roller and pull the boat onto the trailer with the winch. A centering set (2 or 4 rubber wheels) ensures the boat stays straight on the trailer and does not drift away due to currents or wind. 
  • If the winch strap is not winding up properly or is wet, you can unroll it again later when the boat is sitting horizontally on the trailer.
  • Always secure the boat to the winch at the front; this prevents the boat from sliding backward during transport. The winch strap runs from the trailer eye through the rollers of the winch support (if available) to the winch.
  • Note: the trailer must always be adjusted to the boat (you can take care of this yourself, or if you lack experience, have it done by a water sports company). Positioning the boat correctly relative to the boat trailer—i.e., adjusting the rollers, pads, bow support, and axles and thereby the braking system—is of great importance.
  • It is important that rollers are adjusted to the size of the boat so that the greatest pressure is on the keel and the chine (the angle where the floor transitions into the side). Keel rollers (these are the bottom rollers) support the weight. If a keel roller does not support the boat, adjust it higher (this can be done while the boat is on the trailer). The side rollers provide the correct vertical support for your boat. It is best to set these as low as possible before loading the boat onto the trailer (so that the boat rests on the keel rollers). Then, adjust the side rollers as high as possible. If a keel (boat) is higher, the rear in particular can be secured more tightly by using pads instead of rollers.
  • For wide boats, place a set of extra side-supporting pads for extra stability. 
  • Remember to tie the boat to the trailer with 2 or more ratchet tie-down straps. A length of 5 meters is usually sufficient with a working load limit of 1,000 kilograms. Otherwise, the boat could come off the trailer due to, for example, wind or a collision. To protect the boat, you can use special edge protectors, foam rubber, a cloth, or cardboard between the lashing strap and the boat.
  • Ensure the tie-down straps are well-distributed. Place one tie-down strap at one-quarter of the boat's length from the bow (front). This strap must be tensioned diagonally from front to back. 
    Also, place a tie-down strap at one-quarter of the boat's length from the transom (rear). This strap must be tensioned diagonally from back to front.
  • Make use of the special eye bolts wherever possible. If a boat has special points such as a cleat through which a tie-down strap can easily be passed, that is the best option.
  • Be careful to pull the webbing of the tie-down strap as far as possible through the ratchet before using the ratchet. This prevents too much webbing from getting stuck in the ratchet.
  • Check that the boat can no longer move laterally; otherwise, the boat is not properly secured to the boat trailer.
  • Always secure a RIB boat to the polyester hull instead of over the tubes (to prevent wear and leakage, which could lead to a loose RIB).
  • Reattach the light bar and check that the lighting functions.
  • Secure hatches and loose equipment so that these items do not fall or blow out of the boat.
  • Rinse the trailer with fresh water if it has come into contact with salt water, especially the inside of the brake drums.
  • Drive a short distance with the trailer and brake; this will help prevent problems with the brakes.
  • Consider purchasing a stabilizing coupling (anti-sway coupling). This helps bring the trailer back into balance if it starts to sway unexpectedly due to, for example, crosswinds or poor road surfaces. 
  • Open the drain plug (usually located at the bottom of the transom (rear)) of the boat so that any water present can drain out. 

 

Launching and retrieving your boat with a crane


Sailboats, but also heavier motorboats, are sometimes preferred to be launched and retrieved with a crane. Naturally, the right solutions have been made for this type of boat. The emphasis for these types of loading systems is on a stable position of the boat on the various pads and supports and, of course, the ease of placing the lifting straps.

Points of attention and tips for lifting are

  • Ensure that all tension straps/belts and the winch strap or cable are disconnected and safely stowed away. When hoisting a boat, it is important to position the lifting straps so that the boat's center of gravity is properly balanced.
  • A boat trailer for sailboats can be equipped with a centering system to guide the keel. This option significantly reduces the risk of damage.
  • Allow the boat's keel to rest gently against the front keel rollers and lower it slowly until the boat is resting on its support blocks under the keel and/or hull.

Some boats cannot stand on their keel or, conversely, should not lean on a hull. Please consult your boat builder to determine what is best for your specific boat. At Marinaut, we can flexibly adjust the settings of your trailer to accommodate the weight that your hull and keel are permitted to bear.

Securing your boat

To have and maintain a pleasant and safe driving experience, it is of crucial importance to properly secure your boat to your boat trailer. After all, the mass of your boat in combination with speed can cause significant damage if the boat unexpectedly comes loose from the trailer. Furthermore, a boat that wobbles or shifts can have a major negative impact on the handling of your boat trailer.
Some points of attention when securing your boat:

  • Just as with your car, you are not allowed to have any sharp parts below a height of 2 meters.
  • Tighten your winch strap/cable firmly so that the bow of your boat is pulled tight against the bow support. Please note: an electric winch often has enough power to deform the bow support, pull the eye out of the boat, and/or break the cable. Do not over-tighten; once it is tight, it is tight. We always advise using an extra safety chain in case the winch, strap, or cable should fail during transit.
  • Use at least two additional tension straps/belts to keep your boat firmly in place. These straps should be placed completely over the bow and stern decks and secured to the lashing eyes of your boat trailer.
  • Tighten the straps securely and regularly check during your journey to ensure they maintain the correct tension. Ensure that any excess rope or strap is safely stowed or tied up so that it cannot drag on the road or get caught in the wheels.
  • Ensure that any loose cargo within the boat itself does not shift and that the boat is loaded evenly on both sides.
  • Weight imbalances between the left and right sides negatively affect the handling of your boat trailer.
  • Do not simply place a different boat on your boat trailer. Sometimes this may work fine, but often boats differ too much from each other, meaning your trailer may no longer be suitable, the trailer could be seriously damaged, and dangerous situations may arise.

International travel with your boat trailer


A boat trailer may be driven throughout Europe, provided it is loaded according to its registration and towed by a suitable vehicle. However, each individual country, or even regional area within a country, may impose additional requirements and obligations on your boat trailer and your car/trailer combination. These are local laws and regulations that countries and sometimes even municipalities may impose, and which you must comply with at all times. For example, in Germany, it is mandatory to have and use wheel chocks, and in France, you are allowed to drive at 130 kilometers per hour on the highway with a trailer, weather permitting. To avoid misunderstandings, unsafe situations, and (hefty) fines, it is advisable to carefully read and respect the local laws and regulations before traveling internationally with your boat trailer. Laws and regulations regarding vehicles can change over the years. You are responsible for keeping yourself informed. Any (mandatory) modifications can of course be carried out to keep your boat trailer up to date.

Uncoupling your boat trailer:

  • Apply the boat trailer's handbrake if available.
  • Place wheel chocks if on an incline to prevent the trailer from rolling away. Then, release the boat's handbrake to prevent it from seizing. This is a common occurrence during long-term storage. For braked trailers, it is also preferable to place them on a jack stand so that the wheel is slightly off the ground to prevent long-term one-sided loading.
  • Disconnect the breakaway cable and lighting plug.
  • All KNOTT ball couplings are equipped with a safety indicator. This consists of clearly notched symbols, which are covered by a red-green label with the same symbols, and a pointer. If the label is damaged, it should be removed and the notch used, or the label should be replaced, ensuring the dividing lines of the label and the notch align.
  • To open, pull the coupling handle up and then pivot it forward. (The coupling will remain in the "open" position by itself, with the pointer indicating the red field with the large "X".)
  • Move the coupling handle up and then forward to open the coupling. Then, wind the jockey wheel up; the coupling handle will stay up and the boat trailer is now uncoupled.
  • STOP! The trailer must under no circumstances be driven in this position.
  • Attention! Do not put your fingers into the open ball coupling! Even slight pressure on the ball cap can activate the spring-loaded locking mechanism and lead to finger injury.

Storing your boat trailer

If you are storing your boat trailer for an extended period, it is advisable not to leave the handbrake applied, but instead to block the wheels from rolling using wheel chocks. It is also recommended not to leave your boat trailer in direct sunlight for long periods, as this can cause rubber parts to dry out and UV light can damage rollers, rubber, and plastic components. When storing your boat on the trailer, it is always good to relieve the jockey wheel of constant load and to periodically roll the wheels a short distance to protect the tires from wear and "flat-spotting."

General rules and tips


There can often be a "coming and going" at slipways, which may make you feel pressured to quickly get your boat out of the water. Because accidents can happen so easily, we consider it important to draw your attention to a few general rules and tips.

  • Always maintain good situational awareness; know the length of your car and trailer combination and use that knowledge when maneuvering.
  • Slipways are often extremely slippery; do not underestimate this. You will not be the first, and certainly not the last, to end up soaking wet or, worse, seriously injured. Use your boat trailer correctly to get in and out of your boat safely.
  • Watch out for (young) children, as they often dart around you, the boat, and the trailer. Ensure that bystanders maintain a safe distance and certainly do not stand behind or between a reversing combination.
  • Check that your boat's drain plug is properly fitted. This is often opened during storage to drain rainwater or bilge water. If a boat fills with water and needs to be pulled onto the trailer, for example to prevent it from sinking, this can cause serious damage to the trailer because the boat will be much heavier than the trailer is designed for.
  • Never drive your car onto the green (mossy), slippery part of a slipway. The chance that you will lose grip and slide down the ramp or be unable to climb back up is particularly high.
  • Always use a suitable towing vehicle that has the correct capacity to do the job. Simply leave your waterproof LED lighting on; especially in the dark or at dusk, you will be able to see the trailer in the water much better from your boat.
  • Always lock your trailer properly, even when coupled to the car. After a wonderful day on the water, nothing is more annoying than returning to discover your boat trailer has been stolen.

Always use a proper slipway; low grassy edges or a few tiles in the water do not constitute a slipway. Keep in mind that you are sometimes loading the quay wall with several thousand kilograms (car, boat, and trailer).

COC (Certificate of Conformity)


Your boat trailer is a European product and you can therefore obtain a registration in any country. To obtain this registration, you need a COC (Certificate of Conformity). This COC is supplied with the boat trailer and is 100% unique. A COC is only issued once, so store this document carefully. With this COC, you can apply for a registration in each country through the national issuing authority. Additional rules may apply per country.

Maintenance and Service of your stainless steel boat trailer (if applicable)


Stainless steel is often mistakenly thought to be completely rust-proof. However, "stainless" actually means "rust-resistant," and it is therefore not entirely maintenance-free. To keep maintenance to a minimum, there are products available that can protect stainless steel from external influences for a long time.
Due to external influences—think, for example, of flash rust, but also acids and salts—rust deposits or staining are possible. However, these are very easy to remove with a scouring pad and/or stainless steel cleaner.
NOTE: If deposits, in any form, remain on the stainless steel for an extended period, this can cause varying degrees of damage to the stainless steel. This could compromise the safety of the trailer.

What can you do yourself?

The most important thing you can do yourself is to keep a close eye on your boat trailer and report any changes in its performance promptly. This will prevent high repair and/or extra maintenance costs. The following light maintenance tasks can easily be carried out by yourself a few times a year.

  • Checking tire pressure
  • Greasing the ball coupling, though never in the case of an anti-sway coupling
  • Rinsing your boat trailer with tap water to remove dirt, mud, and road salt
  • Always rinse the trailer thoroughly immediately after exposure to salt or brackish water
  • Lubricating the brake cables by injecting grease into the grease nipples or spraying penetrating oil where the inner cable enters the outer cable
  • Lubricating the handbrake lever by applying grease to the teeth
  • Checking wheel bolts; these must be firmly tightened (110 Nm)
  • After the first trip(s) totaling a maximum of 500 km, it is mandatory to check and perform the following:
  • Check wheel bolts (110 Nm)
  • Adjust brakes; the initial wear (running-in) has occurred and they must be readjusted once.
  • For further maintenance intervals to ensure optimal use of your boat trailer, we refer you to the maintenance plan in this manual.

    What major maintenance should be performed on your boat trailer
    To ensure that your boat trailer continues to perform trouble-free year after year, it is necessary to bring your boat trailer in for an annual service. The following maintenance points must then be addressed:
  • Checking tires and rims
  • Greasing the wheel bearings or changing the oil in the wheel bearings
  • Checking brakes; if necessary, replace and adjust brake pads, discs, or shoes
  • Checking lighting, checking the spiral cable, and inspecting contacts for corrosion
  • Inspecting the various metal chassis parts for damage, potential corrosion, and checking bolt connections for the correct tension
  • Checking axles (suspension)
  • Checking and lubricating the jockey wheel, overrun brake, and the various linkages and cables
  • Checking the loading system (the various rollers, supports, and winch straps) and replacing them where necessary
  • Treating the various materials such as stainless steel, zinc, and powder coating with preservatives to extend the lifespan and visual appearance of your boat trailer

MOT (APK) for your boat trailer


At the time of writing, it is not yet mandatory in the Netherlands to submit your trailer under 3500 kg for an annual or biennial MOT (APK) as is the case for your car once it reaches a certain age. However, the legislature is currently working on this. Given the many accidents that happen annually, often due to deferred maintenance and the large number of unprofessionally built and maintained trailers on Dutch roads, this is not an unnecessary luxury.
In other countries, MOT (APK) requirements are often already in place.

  • Safety and warranty regulations
  • Ensure you have read and understood the manual.
  • Do not remove or deface any safety devices, markings, stickers, or other instructions. Use your boat trailer for its intended purpose: transporting boats within the limits set out in the COC, registration, and law.
  • Never, under any circumstances, exceed the load capacity or the maximum permissible tongue weight.
  • With a boat trailer, you can drive 90 km/h in the Netherlands; when certified for "Tempo 100," this is 100 km/h in some countries.
  • Beware of pinching when securing winch straps, tension straps, and/or other fasteners. Be careful of potential slipperiness caused by water, mud, sand, ice, or other conditions when using a catwalk or walkway.
  • Never, under any circumstances, use the walkway while driving. It is strictly forbidden for humans or animals to be on your boat trailer or in your boat while the trailer is being driven.
  • Regular driving with your boat trailer is better than long-term standing. It is advisable to take the load off the axles and jockey wheel during long periods of inactivity by jacking up your boat trailer.
  • Stay informed about changing laws and regulations regarding trailers and do not be caught off guard.
  • It is better to store your boat trailer on a paved surface than, for example, on a lawn.
  • Before launching your boat, first allow your axles, braking system, and wheel bearings to cool down. This significantly extends the life of these rotating parts.
  • When dismantling or scrapping your boat trailer, be aware that hazardous substances and recyclable materials may be present.

Damage

You don't want to think about it, but unfortunately, an accident can happen in a split second. Because the boat trailer is often produced completely modularly, the various components are relatively easy to replace.

Insurance

Insuring a trailer, and therefore your boat trailer as well, is not mandatory, but it is highly recommended. Your boat trailer is covered by your standard third-party liability insurance (WA) when it is coupled to your car. However, it is not the case that your trailer is automatically covered under your car's All-risk or comprehensive insurance. You can take out separate theft and/or damage insurance for your boat trailer.

Operating and maintenance instructions for KNOTT chassis components with operating regulations:

The following operating and maintenance instructions, including operating regulations, relate to KNOTT chassis components. They form part of the warranty conditions; furthermore, the relevant operating instructions from the manufacturer must be observed. To maintain safety during use and in traffic, maintenance work must be carried out at the prescribed intervals. Maintenance, repairs, and replacement of wear parts on the chassis and in the brake system may only be performed by a qualified garage. Only original KNOTT replacement parts may be used in order to
a) guarantee function and safety,
b) retain warranty and guarantee claims,
c) maintain the operating license according to national and international regulations
The brake system, in particular the overrun device, the wheel brakes, and the drawbar, have been tested according to valid EC directives and may only be used in the approved combination. KNOTT chassis consist of the ball coupling, the overrun device, the transmission system, the wheel brakes in connection with KNOTT rubber, torsion, and steel torsion spring axles and, if applicable, the drawbar, the tie rods, or the longitudinal beams.

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A boat trailer is intended for transporting vessels within the limits set for the various types of trailers. These limits can be found in the price lists and on the various type plates. They are also stated on the included CoC (Certificate of Conformity). Exceeding these limits is punishable and can lead to heavy fines, or worse, cause serious damage to the boat, car, people, and/or animals.
It is advisable not to change the boat and trailer combination without consideration, as this almost always requires a new adjustment of the loading system, axle assembly, and/or braking system. Furthermore, changing the towing vehicle (the car) may also necessitate a readjustment in connection with the legally mandated maximum nose weight.

Question about your boat or trailer? Mention the make, model, and the subject from this manual.

Help with this manual

Do you have a question about the use or maintenance of your boat trailer? Send us the brand, model, and if possible, a photo. This will allow us to assist you more effectively.